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Restaurant and dining guide

Benedict Brader

Anyone looking for a good meal around Chorlton has tended to focus on the areas around two B roads, by which I mean Burton Road and Beech Road. The former boasts well-known names like Rhubarb and Bistro West 156, while the latter is more particularly Chorltonish, full of quirky, independent venues – the Lead Station is always popular. There are, however, an increasing number of intriguing and rewarding experiences to be had in more unexpected places, and a walk down Barlow Moor Road will reveal some lesser-known treasures. Persia, Due Fratelli and Coriander, towards Princess Parkway, are well worth a visit. Nearer Chorlton, Leo’s and Yakisoba are both excellent, with a great bar, Escape, just next door to start or round off the evening.

Yakisoba means a type of fried noodles dish in Japanese, so don’t expect Sushi – here the Bento box is king. This is a subdivided box, which varies on the night but generally contains portions of soup, prawn crackers, nuts, fruit and salad accompanied by a main dish, creating the feel of a taster menu or tapas. Initially, the salad and fruit were slightly disappointing – as if they’d run out of things to put in the sections, so put in some leaves and a slice of orange. However, this actually only adds to the feel of the place – simple things are done well.

The soup was delicious and, strange as this may sound, the three nuts huddled alone in the middle were covered in a sweet glaze which I really enjoyed. If this all sounds like an unusual mix, bear in mind that everything comes together, effectively presenting you with a starter, main course and dessert in one. We found that this one Bento box combi-meal was enough without other courses, and when you consider that these mainly cost £8.95, you can begin to see one important attraction of the place. You can even feel fairly healthy by finishing your meal with melon and orange, rather than some pastry confection smothered in cream and guilt.

The main dishes, which accompany the Bento box, are obviously the stars of the show, with good-sized portions of any number of oriental dishes, and an impressive selection of vegetarian options. There is a mix of Japanese, Thai, Chinese and other oriental styles, so for example you could opt for Pad Thai (Thai), Mee Goreng (Malaysian), or Yakiudon (Japanese). I would recommend Hokkien Mein with Duck as a good introductory Bento (these are all £8.95).

There is huge variety here and you can feel safe to experiment. The meat is nicely cooked and good quality, the flavours balanced and authentic – you can pick out the different elements of each mouthful as you eat and still enjoy the overall effect. I shall certainly be returning to try the Oriental Tea House section of the menu – a mix of dishes each priced around £2.80. Maybe a lunchtime visit is in order.

You may end up sat quite close to your neighbours – tables are mainly set out in a row along one wall, but when busy there is an appealing buzz to the place, which offsets any concerns in this area. Waiters and waitresses are attentive but not overbearing, although I would recommend booking a table at the weekend or you could end up waiting a while. If a criticism were to be made, it is that the sheer speed of service means that you could be in and out in half an hour. However, if you want to relax and linger there certainly won’t be any pressure to leave from the staff. Try a Kirin beer (£3), sweet plum wine (£3.25) or maybe a glass of Saki (flask £6.95), and afterwards a drink in Escape bar next door.

The sign over the door advertises ‘The Oriental Dining Experience’, and as an experience, this is first class. The format is innovative, the food excellent and very affordable, the service good and the atmosphere vibrant. If you like oriental cuisine and fancy trying something new one evening, Yakisoba is definitely worth a visit, and I’d be surprised if you don’t become a regular.


Yakisoba
360 Barlow Moor Road
Chorlton
Manchester
M21 8AZ

T: 0161 8620888
W: www.yakisoba.co.uk