The Refuge by Volta is the upcoming, well-anticipated restaurant in the new and improved Palace Hotel. The team running the show are DJs turned restaurateurs, Luke Cowdrey and Justin Crawford (“The Unabombers”), who brought us Didsbury’s independent, award-winning eatery and bar, Volta. Nominated for 3 awards at this year’s Manchester Food and Drink Festival, the team are now preparing to make their city-centre debut, opening on September 14, just in time for the festival itself, for which they will host the finale Gala Dinner on October 10.
The iconic Palace Hotel is undergoing a multi-million pound revamp, retaining signature architectural features which reveal the exciting history of this former Assurance Building, while adding a modern flair. It’s an incredible mesh of ornamental, old architecture and more modern accessories. Brass pipes hug the old columns of the building and black metal dividers divvy up the space; a nod to Manchester’s industrial heritage. The 10,000 square foot space includes a relaxed dining room, a winter garden (complete with indoor tree), a cosy den (with table football and pool table), an indoor street with access through the den, as well as a public bar.
We went down for a ‘first taste’ of Chef Alex Worrall new menu which keeps some of the Volta classics and brings new, bold and vibrant dishes to the table. There will be small plates, large plates and sharing dishes to dig into. Some old favourites include Crispy Lamb Shawarma, Harissa and Yoghurt, Fresh Fig and Halloumi and Smoked Feta, Beetroot, Hazlenut and Dill. The new menu will also include an extended grill section, designed to offer large cuts of meat for the table, or for solo diners who simply want their own larger plate.
The food is uncomplicated, relying on perfection cooking and quality produce. Each of the dishes contains just a few elements which, quite simply, taste wonderful together. There’s no modern presentation, no faff, it’s as if all the ingredients have just fallen together wonderfully on the plate - the flavour speaks for itself. Garnishes like fresh herbs, crumbled feta, nuts and various sauces sit casually on top of dishes. That’s not to say the plates are a mess, there is clearly a lot of care and respect for the food here.
Impressive sharing dishes include whole sides of Stone Bass cooked in banana leaves with tamarind, chilli and lime, covered in peanuts, crispy garlic and coriander, and slow-cooked leg of lamb served with harissa, yoghurt and flatbreads. They were very different but equally impressive dishes, the stone bass with its fresh, sharp Asian-style flavours and the lamb with its rich, deep, meaty flavour, spiced up by the harissa and cooled by the yoghurt. Both were incredibly tender and fell apart pretty much on sight.
Other stand out dishes include Ox cheek with hen’s egg and sriracha; Salt cod croquettes with a parsley aioli; Belly stuffed bass; and Aubergine fritters with whipped feta and pomegranate molasses. All mouth-watering, visually impressive dishes that give you that real, heart-warming feeling. These can all be washed down with The Refuge’s well-travelled wine list, local craft beer menu (including their own Volta brew) or incredible cocktails collection. So whether you’re there to wine or dine (or both!), you’re in good hands.
The Refuge will be an all-day dining and drinking, city centre oasis, and so this menu will take diners and drinkers through from brunch & coffee to lunch & dinner, through afternoon high tea & cocktails. It’s serious food, in an unpretentious, laid-back atmosphere and a stunning setting. It's a space that needs to be visited, for gastronomic, architectural and historical reasons. So, put 14th September in your diaries and just come as you are.