IT’S amazingly seven years since the last Portuguese restaurant in Manchester City centre closed. We remember Luso on Bridge Street with affection if only for the fact we once ran into Cristiano Ronaldo there, who shared with us his thoughts on its salt cod dishes (“almost as good as my mother’s”) and team-mate Wayne Rooney (“when we play together for United we are best of buddies but in internationals sworn enemies”).
Now this autumn a new Portuguese venture is set to open in Ancoats with impeccable culinary credentials Simon Shaw, chef patron and creative director of El Gato Negro, has revealed plans for Canto.
Meaning ‘corner’ in Portuguese, the laid-back restaurant will be located in the Fairbairn Building on Henry Street – next to Rudy’s Pizza and for so long the mooted site of Goose Fat and Wild Garlic. Canto will be headed up by Porto-born Carlos Gomes, current head chef at El Gato Negro (below) on King Street. His cv involves previous experience at Michelin-starred Barrafina and Koya.
Canto will focus on simple, modern, authentic Portuguese dishes. Everything will be cooked fresh using the finest ingredients. Very much like El Gato.
Speaking on the plans Shaw said: “I first visited Lisbon about 20 years ago and thought it a really cool place, raw but great. Seven years later I returned and there was a real movement taking place, a city with edge. When I returned in March it was like, wow, this is now a serious European city.
“The Portuguese food movement is in its infancy in the UK but it’s happening, with some really great restaurants emerging in London in the last few years.
“It would be easy for me to open another Spanish restaurant but I wanted a fresh challenge and to take people on a journey. It’s always been on my radar to open a modern Portuguese restaurant and when Carlos joined the team with the same long-term vision, everything fell into place. It was like we were in the right place, with the right people, at the right time.
“We’re ahead of the game. A year from now we’ll all either be geniuses or have got it wrong. But we feel Manchester is ready for this, and Ancoats is the perfect location.”
Gomes added: “Canto will be adventurous, simple and exciting. I’m looking forward to introducing Manchester to authentic Portuguese cuisine with a modern touch.”
A friend of Taste of Manchester, who works with El Gato, has tasted some of the Canto trail dishes and is wildly enthusiastic. Bring on the autumn.