EARLY autumn is ToM’s favourite time at Chorlton’s Unicorn Grocery with the glut of summer goodness giving way to the earthier flavours of the Fall. Time to check out their Instagram produce bulletins, pull out the hempen bag and its parsnip logo and tackle the heaving shelves, usually offering up to 70 fruit, veg and salad lines a day.
Obviously we are not alone in being entranced by this worker co-op with its commitment to individual growers. It has just been named Best Food Retailer at the 17th BBC Food and Farming Awards (it won the same award back in 2008). Loyal customers nominated it and it was shortlisted from more than 500 food retailers. The other finalists were Organic Farmshop in Cirencester and Lavenham Butchers.
Unicorn obviously ticks a lot of boxes. They buy direct from producers, only sell organic and 'in conversion' fruit and vegetables, don’t prepack to distinguish at the till, so avoiding the extra 15-20 per cent price penalty added at the multiples. Plus customers get to sniff and feel the freshness of what’s on offer.
Since it was set up 20 years ago, the co-op has grown from four members to more than 70 and was named the Soil Association’s Best Independent Retailer in 2016. It is run by its employee-owners, who are managers of the business, taking on equal responsibility and shifting roles for equal pay.
“We feel delighted, proud,” said worker-owner Dan Holden. “Thank you to all our customers and growers who nominated us. We would be nothing without our farmers.”
Unicorn Grocery, 89 Albany Road, Manchester M21 0BN.