By Neil Sowerby
ONCE upon a time pro footballers would retire to run a pub where they could frame their international caps behind the bar and sign the odd autograph or two for the passing trade.
Times have changed. After exiting centre stage at the Theatre of Dreams it’s time to make other dreams come true. The Class of ’92, when not coaching England or United or Salford City, are investing big time in the city that worshipped them (well, half of it did). Property projects include Booth Street and the former Stock Exchange off Market Street, while Ryan Giggs and two school pals run George’s Restaurant and Dining Room in Worsley.
But the most high profile platform, with outside financial backing, is Hotel Football, a mere long throw away from Old Trafford, and its restaurant, Cafe Football, whose ethos of casual dining in homage to football was established at the original in East London with input from 2 Michelin star Michael Wignall.
The Manchester version, seating 185, benefits enormously from being the focal point of a four-star hotel featuring football-themed rooms, an array of artwork and player portraits lauding the beautiful game and a rooftop five-a-side football pitch (perfect or kids’ parties) that has spectacular views both of the ground and Salford Quays.
Reached by a separate entrance, essential in the hurly burly of match days is the Old Trafford Supporters Club basement bar that holds 750 fans. Entrance is a quid, the money going to local community projects. There are, of course, lightly more expensive meet your heroes packages in the hotel proper 9our main picture is the view from the Stadium Suite).
Even as a non-United fan, I was deeply impressed, but could the food live up to the setting? It had to offer a more satisfying experience than the corporate catering inside Old Trafford. Perhaps a match day visit might have better tested its mettle. But we went on a quiet Wednesday with the old enemy Liverpool’s FA Cup replay filling the regulation massive screens and still enjoyed it immensely.
Yes, it is a colourful sports bar setting with a strong American diner influence and a menu (Pre-Match Warm Up, the Kick Off, Fans’ Favourites, you get it) that doesn’t stray far from a template of burgers, ribs and pizzas with nods to the central characters involved. Hence Scholesy’s Steak Pudding (£9.95) or Nev’s Noodle Pot, with roast chicken bok choi and shitake mushrooms giving it the edge on the old bedsit staple.
The edible homage going on didn’t grate, so for my main I ordered The Boss (£13.95), a benchmark burger with hair-dryer aged beef (OK, I made that one up) oodles of pulled pork, shreds of Scotch bonnet chilli and a limy Asian slaw. My dining teammate, Rob the Red was equally enamoured of his Giggsy’s Red Dragon Sausages, mash and onion gravy – well-textured bangers and creamy spuds for £9.95.
The Boss, to Gary Neville, Ryan and the rest, will indelibly be Sir Alex. I inquired after the current incumbent of the managerial hot seat. No, Louis Van Gaal, that truculent fighting cock of a Dutchman, hasn’t been over to sample the pork shoulder, black pudding and Dijon mustard sausage rolls, though that nice David de Gea has dropped by.
For the Pre-match Warm Up we had already overloaded on chipolata sausages with mustard mayo and a surprisingly large pizzetta with serrano ham, parmesan and a raft of (excellently crispy) crust. These were starters in themselves, but our actual ‘Kick Off’ fare was a slightly under-spiced Chicken Satay (£7.95) with pickled cucumber for Rob and Beans on Toast with well-spiced homemade beans (£4.45), symptomatic of a rare attention to detail in what is primarily bar food.
I’d suggest accompanying it with a bottle of Brightside’s beautifully balanced Manchester Skyline golden ale, pick of a not terribly interesting beer menu. The wine list, too, offers few surprises. After our ale refresher we went for Moonriver Pinot Noir from Hungary (£21.50), a fruity red I’ve enjoyed in past vintages, but this 2011 was earthy in a not very attractive way.
We were too full for pudding (though a colleague raves about the Vimto Trifle) and had no inclination to raid their Sweet Bar, a temple to childhood match day nostalgia that fits in sublimely with the fun for fans approach of the whole Hotel Football
Pity that by now there was no way we were up to a kick around on the roof.
Hotel Football, Manchester, 99 Sir Matt Busby Way, M16 0SZ http://www.cafe-football.com