By Neil Sowerby
TIM Bacon got all dewy-eyed apparently when checking out the Deansgate site for his new Botanist bar. Over the past two decades the Living Ventures entrepreneur has set up (in no particular order and sorry if Ive missed out a few places) Living Rooms, Alchemists, Black Houses, Gustos, Australasia, Grand Pacific, The Oast House Artisan, Manchester House.
But the latest site, until recently Label, is also the earliest, where he launched his first bar, JW Johnsons on 1993. So an obvious cue for nostalgia, even for a millionaire Aussie, whod long moved on. The current operation looks vastly different, a bit rustic chic like Artisan but less post-industrial. The tin roof is very Oast House and the expensive hillbilly barn trappings were begat by the original Botanist in Alderley Edge. Both brands form part of Tims spin-off New World Trading Company, which has stealthily created further Botanists in Leeds and Chester before this.
Its a formula that definitely works on the evidence of a preview meal. The distinctive hanging kebabs, rotisserie chickens and deli boards from Oast House are here but the cask beers are more varied including Manchesters own Blackjack and the bottled beer list has some quirky offerings. I tried a French-Norwegian collaboration between the St Germain and Nøgne Ø breweries a Rhubarb IPA, subtle as fruit beers go with fragrant hoppiness coming though. The cocktail list is exemplary and not exorbitantly priced. Live music is promised every night.
The Botanist, 78 Deansgate, Manchester M3 2FW. 0161 833 1878. http://thebotanist.uk.com