Reviews

Review: Elnecot Summer Menu

Review: Elnecot Summer Menu

SMALL plates are not going to go away any time soon. Grazing seems to match the attention span of a millennial media surfer. Download six dishes between us – we’re no longer attached to the ...

22 May 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Umezushi, Mirabel Street

Review: Umezushi, Mirabel Street

IT is the most expensive single prawn I’ve ever eaten – and the most delicious. A deep-sea Carabinero, so called because the striking colour of the shells matches that of a Spanish policeman’s uniform. In ...

14 May 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: The Creameries, Chorlton

Review: The Creameries, Chorlton

IDEALISM is a precious commodity. One to be treasured in a world where food can be as fake as the news. The Creameries has set itself a standard as outlined by co-owner Soo Wilkinson prior ...

11 May 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review; Indian Tiffin Room

Review; Indian Tiffin Room

WE went to Indian Tiffin Room with the best of plant-based intentions. Ideally to promote Indian regional food as the perfect way to celebrate National Vegetarian Week (May 14-20). Then we spotted grilled lamb chops ...

10 May 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Asha's vegetarian offering

Review: Asha's vegetarian offering

IT is apparently a myth – sacred cow even – that the Indian diet is predominantly vegetarian, though it’s a minefield trying to pin down the exact demographic region by region, religious community by community. ...

23 April 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Nat Tofan at Manchester House

Review: Nat Tofan at Manchester House

MAYBE it was the inner socialist raging inside ToM’s representative but he balked at the Millionaire’s Sandwich when it made its Manchester House debut during the unveiling of new exec chef Nat Tofan’s spring menu. ...

17 April 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: The Rivals at The Royal Exchange

Review: The Rivals at The Royal Exchange

THEY named the Royal Exchange’s current restaurant after the theatre’s first production, Sheridan’s The Rivals. Framed programme extracts hanging in the reinvented dining space make me suddenly feel old. Quoth the Ancient Critic casting his ...

12 April 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Rudy's Pizza, Peter Street

Review: Rudy's Pizza, Peter Street

ONCE upon a time when fish and chips was unanimously the nation’s favourite fast food Harry Ramsden’s was founded in a wooden hut north of Leeds. Within three years canny Harry had moved into a ...

11 April 2018 by Neil Sowerby

REVIEW: THE RELAUNCHED RABBIT IN THE MOON

REVIEW: THE RELAUNCHED RABBIT IN THE MOON

WITH apologies to the Stone Roses, this is the resurrection, this is the light, this is a Rabbit in the Moon that shines like never before. Out of this world? It’s finally getting there. Relaunches ...

6 April 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: 20 Stories

Review: 20 Stories

SETTLE down. That’s what critics should let a restaurant do before any forensic examination. All that soft launch shenanigans put to bed, the PR stunts shuffled off, the inevitable menu tweaks (lose that broccoli quiche) ...

29 March 2018 by Neil Sowerby

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