Reviews

Review: Erst, Ancoats

Review: Erst, Ancoats

SPREAD the word – Michelin-starred Mana doesn’t have a monopoly on contemporary culinary wizardry in Ancoats. Yet inevitably it steals most of the thunder. Close neighbour Erst refuses to prioritise the fascinations of Patrick Withington’s ...

22 January 2020 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Dishoom vegan menu

Review: Dishoom vegan menu

IT arrives as a separate A5 sheet, the Dishoom vegan menu. One side says ‘Breakfast’, the other ‘Lunch and Later’. The first offers scrambled tofu and soy keema as alternatives to egg and minced lamb ...

14 January 2020 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Edinburgh Castle, Ancoats

Review: Edinburgh Castle, Ancoats

DON’T ever underestimate the amount of research ToM puts into its restaurant reviews. Take the opening gambit of our dinner in the upstairs dining room of the Edinburgh Castle. A trio of fresh shucked oysters ...

28 December 2019 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Abeja Tapas at Hatch

Review: Abeja Tapas at Hatch

‘FELIZ Navidad’, Ana from Granada. Discovering your tiny tapas bar among the foodie shipping containers of Hatch has made it a merry pre-Christmas for ToM. The best tortilla we’ve eaten outside Spain, silky croquetas, those ...

20 December 2019 by Neil Sowerby

Review: The Bull & Bear

Review: The Bull & Bear

THE fate of the nation in the balance. So where else to go out for dinner on Election Night than that bastion of capitalism, the former Stock Exchange? The brokers’ ghosts looking down may be ...

13 December 2019 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Wolf At The Door, Northern Quarter

Review: Wolf At The Door, Northern Quarter

IF the ‘Grand Tour’ for you means Jeremy Clarkson and his piston-headed pals signal away now. To ToM, with the benefit of an education, it evokes the peregrinations of upper class young fellows across Europe ...

25 November 2019 by Neil Sowerby

Andes highs – five dishes to savour at Peru Perdu

Andes highs – five dishes to savour at Peru Perdu

THE closest we’ve been to Peru is footage of Paddington Bear rescued from an Amazon torrent. But put a Pisco Sour in our hand and we’re half way there. A it happens at Peru Perdu ...

20 November 2019 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Mr Cooper’s Sunday menu

Review: Mr Cooper’s Sunday menu

SUCH a relief to discover Mr Cooper’s new meat-led Sunday menu isn’t solely focused on roasts. Tomahawk or Chateaubriand? Now that’s a much more exciting choice than buttoned-up topside – with just a scattering of ...

5 November 2019 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Bistrotheque at CULTUREPLEX

Review: Bistrotheque at CULTUREPLEX

IN Steven Spielberg’s movie, Terminal, Tom Hanks played a stranded tourist forced by red tape to exist 24/7 inside New York’s JFK Airport. A strange fantasy? Well, the Ducie Street Warehouse offers its own opportunity ...

4 November 2019

Review: Three Little Words

Review: Three Little Words

SEB Heeley, co-founder of restaurant/bar Three Little Words is aiming high. The meteoric success of his Manchester Gin has spawned the new Spirit of Manchester Distillery complex behind the Great Northern – a seriously stylish ...

29 October 2019 by Review: Three Little Words

Close