Reviews

Review: Randall & Aubin, Bridge Street

Review: Randall & Aubin, Bridge Street

“I WAS wrong about the lobster. It’s not from Devon but from Cornwall… you would still like?” asks our server Maria. Of course and I don’t mind one jot that my Devin crab might have ...

7 June 2017 by Neil Sowerby

Out of town review: Tom Parker at The White Swan, Fence

Out of town review: Tom Parker at The White Swan, Fence

VICTORY on last year’s Great British Menu raised Midland French chef Adam Reid’s profile through the roof. His inspired Golden Empire Apple, selected as dessert course for the Westminster banquet climax of the BBC2 cook-off ...

28 May 2017 by Phil Jones

Review: Roost/La Cantina, Heaton Moor

Review: Roost/La Cantina, Heaton Moor

ZUNI on Market Street, San Francisco remains one of my favourite eating places on earth, though I’ve only been there twice in 20 years. The decor may be mock adobe, as befits a former cactus ...

16 May 2017 by Neil Sowerby

Review: The Bird at Birtle

Review: The Bird at Birtle

DON’T you mistrust those desperate road houses plastered with signs saying ‘Great Pub’, ‘Hearty Welcome Guaranteed’, ‘Home-cooked Food Served All Day’, ‘Hand-pulled Ales’, ‘Sky Sports’, ‘Psychotic Landlord’? OK, we made the last one up, but ...

4 May 2017 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Turtle Bay, Northern Quarter

Review: Turtle Bay, Northern Quarter

SUNSETS, beaches, cocktails, music, even on one occasion a small hurricane, are what I remember best of the Caribbean. Never the food. Sure the fruit at breakfast is just off the tree and the barbecue ...

4 May 2017 by Neil Sowerby

Review: The Lowry spring menu

Review: The Lowry spring menu

SPRING has truly sprung in menus across Manchester. You wonder – was there a time before wild garlic was ubiquitous in ever upstart menu? Does the asparagus season get earlier by the year And don’t ...

24 April 2017 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Iberica’s spring menu

Review: Iberica’s spring menu

SHOW stealers at a sampling of Iberica’s new spring menu were the veggie dishes. Who would have thought a clutch of baby Chantenay carrots tempura-battered (£5) could prove so beguiling in the company of glass ...

20 April 2017 by Neil Sowerby

Review: El Gato Negro’s spring menu

Review: El Gato Negro’s spring menu

A HALF dozen glistening shells on ice, cradling the fleshiest of oysters, topped with pickled cucumber, yuzu juice and ‘green caviar’ (tobiko fish roe infused with wasabi to give colour and spice). The culinary composition ...

19 April 2017 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Tattu new spring menu

Review: Tattu new spring menu

TATTU co-owner Adam Jones tells me, as I bump into him on the way out, that for the first time in its two years of existence he’s completely happy with the menu. Bullshit? Well, no. ...

13 April 2017 by Neil Sowerby

Review: The new look Eagle & Child, Ramsbottom

Review: The new look Eagle & Child, Ramsbottom

WE went to admire the new bedrooms and ended up swooning over the food. It should have come as no surprise – Ramsbottom’s Eagle and Child has won ‘Britain’s Best Sunday Lunch’ in the 2013 ...

13 April 2017 by Neil Sowerby

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