Reviews

Review: The Marble Arch (and its beer Mash Ups)

Review: The Marble Arch (and its beer Mash Ups)

MARBLE bookends. First the shiny new flagship brewery, then back to where it all began. Quite a day, which ended with a replete waddle across a sun-dappled Angel Meadow after a reminder how satisfying the ...

21 May 2019

Review: James Martin Manchester

Review: James Martin Manchester

FUNNY the short term memory we have about restaurants. Take Leeds and the meteoric rise of Michael O’Hare to Michelin stardom with The Man Behind the Curtain, which only launched in 2014. Most of the ...

29 April 2019 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Tattu spring/summer menu

Review: Tattu spring/summer menu

OUTSIDE ToM Towers the last of the vernal blossom is being scattered by Storm Hannah. So we’ve been seeking consolation in the eternal springtime that inhabits Tattu. In China each spring they celebrate the return ...

26 April 2019 by Neil Sowerby

Review: The Spärrows

Review: The Spärrows

SPARROWS nesting in the archway opposite Umezushi? Surely some mistake. Wasn’t Unit 3 earmarked to be that Japanese restaurant’s offshoot KIAA (Kitchen In The Arch), billed as a “painless one stop shop for all your ...

18 April 2019 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Cibus, Levenshulme

Review: Cibus, Levenshulme

CIBUS takes in a lot of Italy – from the fog-shrouded lagoons of Venice to Puglia, the country’s scorched ‘heel’. Owner of the Levenshulme pop-up restaurant Giorgio Fontana is a proud Venetian while his head ...

8 April 2019 by Neil Sowerby

Review: 20 Stories lunch menu

Review: 20 Stories lunch menu

SAD but eternally true, it has always been easier to find a better value lunch in the fine dining bastions of London than in Manchester’s middling destinations. It’s been a year or two since we’ve ...

5 April 2019 by Neil Sowerby

Our verdict on El Gato Negro’s surprising Sunday menu makeover

Our verdict on El Gato Negro’s surprising Sunday menu makeover

TIME was when every month seemed to bring a Spanish restaurant opening. You couldn’t move for small plates along Deansgate and its tributary streets. More recently that flood has reduced to a trickle. Porta’s a ...

21 March 2019 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Porta Tapas, Salford

Review: Porta Tapas, Salford

SPANISH cheese is not just Manchego, delightful though that can be with a bit of age on its golden curds. When Porta announced they were opening a third tapas outlet in Salford we prayed they’d ...

5 March 2019 by Neil Sowerby

Review: White Hart Inn, Lydgate

Review: White Hart Inn, Lydgate

STAYING faithful? Never straying? Ah. Chef’s careers can be one long career choice dating app, fickly switching from kitchen to kitchen, country to country even. Have knife set, will travel. Along the way, they pick ...

24 February 2019

Sea cucumber? Sea urchin? Our verdict on Tast Catala's stunning new menus

Sea cucumber? Sea urchin? Our verdict on Tast Catala's stunning new menus

SEA cucumber sounds better than sea slug; either’s an interpretation of Espardenyes, an expensive delicacy found off the Catalan coast – elsewhere, too, but not consumed with the same reverence. In the raw, perhaps given ...

15 February 2019 by Neil Sowerby

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