Reviews

Review: Refuge Sunday Roasts

Review: Refuge Sunday Roasts

ARE you a brunch or a roast kind of weekender? – the sort of question served up in those lazy celeb soundbites in the posh Sundays. I’m neither, as it happens. Not that my shrinking ...

20 February 2017 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Pasta Factory, Shudehill

Review: Pasta Factory, Shudehill

A SIMPLE pasta dish for lunch with a glass of wine. Easy to rustle up at home – boil to al dente the Cecco or Barilla, in the shape of your choice, and pour on ...

17 February 2017 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Bundobust, Piccadilly

Review: Bundobust, Piccadilly

IT has become a habit. Purse strings stretched, this time we’ll just do the set lunch… and then can’t resist piling on the extra dishes. Not that such behaviour is going to bankrupt you at ...

13 February 2017 by Neil Sowerby

Review: The Fusion Lab, Arndale Market

Review: The Fusion Lab, Arndale Market

WATCH classical musicians try and play jazz. It just doesn’t work. Ask them to dip into World Music. Even worse. Ditto chefs trained in fine dining kitchens when asked to hang loose and produce street ...

12 January 2017 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Allotment Vegan Restaurant, Stockport

Review: Allotment Vegan Restaurant, Stockport

IT was just one of those vegan days. An email alert for next month’s Central Manchester Vegan Fair, a card in the station waiting room for a non-dairy eating electrician, ‘Vegan Spark’, a peep into ...

13 December 2016

Review: The Refuge by Volta

Review: The Refuge by Volta

IN a week when fine dining bastion The French unveils a casual small plate lunch menu for midweek it’s hard not to detect a debt to the groove pioneered by Volta. The eclectic but perfectly ...

30 November 2016 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Shoryu Ramen, Piccadilly Gardens

Review: Shoryu Ramen, Piccadilly Gardens

IT’S no shame to slurp loudly when sucking up ramen from its bone stock. In noodle bars in the southern Japanese city of Fukuoka, where the benchmark Tonkotsu ramen originated, all around it must be ...

23 November 2016 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Albert's Schloss Sunday Roast

Review: Albert's Schloss Sunday Roast

BAR of the Year in the 2016 Manchester Food and Drink Awards, Albert’s Schloss refuses to rest on its laurels. Some might say it is straying from its Germanic culinary template, but the arrival of ...

14 November 2016 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Hispi, Didsbury

Review: Hispi, Didsbury

TO the point. Restaurant reviews sometimes are. We are going to take Gary Usher at his word. On the opening night of his third bistro, Hispi, he told me: “I don’t want this to be ...

1 November 2016

Review: My Thai, John Dalton Street

Review: My Thai, John Dalton Street

SPLENDID Kitchen was part of that first flurry of restaurant closures back in June that generated a spate of media jeremiads (lovely word) about the whole scene being doomed. This was – remarkably – pre-Brexit, ...

1 September 2016

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