Reviews

Review: Ivy Asia, Spinningfields

Review: Ivy Asia, Spinningfields

IT is some time in the early Noughties. We are staying at the Metropolitan Hotel in Mayfair. The Armani-clad staff are beyond snooty cool. We dine in its restaurant, Nobu, where Boris Becker notoriously had ...

16 December 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Elnecot Ancoats Winter Menu

Review: Elnecot Ancoats Winter Menu

FINE tuning a small plate offering is a tricky task. On a tapas menu you’d be astonished if albondigas, padron peppers, croquetas and tortillas were suddenly ditched. Salford’s new Spanish arrival Porta offers these and ...

12 December 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Allotment on Lloyd Street

Review: Allotment on Lloyd Street

JONATHAN Gold, the legendary Los Angeles Times food critic who died this year, never reviewed a restaurant on one visit alone. In City of Gold, the documentary that charted his groundbreaking championing of street food ...

10 December 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Tre Ciccio, Altrincham

Review: Tre Ciccio, Altrincham

IT was the pizza that drew us to Tre Ciccio. After suggesting Salvi’s Neapolitan style topped dough might be the best around (despite our soft spot for Rudy’s) we then felt compelled to check out ...

29 November 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Piccolino Caffe Grande

Review:  Piccolino Caffe Grande

AN old friend has been through some difficult times. All’s well now but you’re still hesitant about dropping by. That was the case with Piccolino Caffe Grande, closed for seven weeks after a minor fire ...

29 November 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Game enough to sample Iberica’s winter specials?

Review: Game enough to sample Iberica’s winter specials?

AUTUMN’S the game season and this healthy, sustainable meat is guaranteed to be on the menu in the best country inns and hotels. Great places to sample it within an hour’s driving distance of Manchester ...

22 November 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Canto, Cutting Room Square

Review: Canto, Cutting Room Square

NO-ONE has ever visited Lisbon without trekking up to the Belém district to tackle the Pastéis de Belém. They’ve been baking these egg tart pastries dusted with cinnamon at the atmospheric Antiga Confeitaria de Belém ...

14 November 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Northern Monk Refectory NQ

Review: Northern Monk Refectory NQ

DON’T go searching for extensive food offerings in Manchester’s craft beer temples. Few bother to run a hot kitchen. So Port Street Beer House, winner in the beer bar category at the 2018 Manchester Food ...

7 November 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Gaucho, St Mary’s Street

Review: Gaucho, St Mary’s Street

REMEMBER those cowpoke movies when they reassemble a gang of honest desperadoes for one last impossible mission? Maybe there’s a Pampas-driven version featuring Argentinia’s answer, the Gauchos, equally tall in the saddle and not averse ...

4 November 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Tattu winter menu

Review: Tattu winter menu

IN a restaurant climate where closures and cutbacks are making the headlines expansion is a brave move. So good luck to Tattu, which is currently fitting out 5,000 sq ft of space for its third ...

2 November 2018 by Neil Sowerby

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