Reviews

Our verdict on El Gato Negro’s surprising Sunday menu makeover

Our verdict on El Gato Negro’s surprising Sunday menu makeover

TIME was when every month seemed to bring a Spanish restaurant opening. You couldn’t move for small plates along Deansgate and its tributary streets. More recently that flood has reduced to a trickle. Porta’s a ...

21 March 2019 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Porta Tapas, Salford

Review: Porta Tapas, Salford

SPANISH cheese is not just Manchego, delightful though that can be with a bit of age on its golden curds. When Porta announced they were opening a third tapas outlet in Salford we prayed they’d ...

5 March 2019 by Neil Sowerby

Review: White Hart Inn, Lydgate

Review: White Hart Inn, Lydgate

STAYING faithful? Never straying? Ah. Chef’s careers can be one long career choice dating app, fickly switching from kitchen to kitchen, country to country even. Have knife set, will travel. Along the way, they pick ...

24 February 2019

Review: Lily’s Indian Vegetarian Cuisine, Ashton-under-Lyne

Review: Lily’s Indian Vegetarian Cuisine, Ashton-under-Lyne

A WET Wednesday evening in early February found TOM in one of Greater Manchester's far eastern outskirts. Ashton-under-Lyne had, earlier in the day, been a bustling town centre but at 6pm people are scarce; traffic ...

13 February 2019 by Phil Jones

Review: Michelin-starred White Swan tasting menu

Review: Michelin-starred White Swan tasting menu

TURBOT two ways and a journey to the source explain what makes the tasting menu tick at the North West’s newest Michelin star restaurant. We make no apologies for straying outside Manchester to reflect on ...

8 February 2019 by Neil Sowerby

Review: The Laureate, Crowne Plaza – Oxford Road

Review: The Laureate, Crowne Plaza – Oxford Road

SEA buckthorn’s off. Chef’s apologising over a no-show for these hard-to-forage coastal berries. Their vivid flavour should have complemented the chocolate fondant with hazelnut and tonka bean ice cream (below), but there’d been a blip ...

28 January 2019 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Folk & Soul, Northern Quarter

Review: Folk & Soul, Northern Quarter

LIKE the old pub tease ‘free beer tomorrow’ ‘new chef, new menu’ is a mantra critics have to confront. Sometimes though you must review what’s on your plate, not promises, and say why it has ...

4 January 2019

Review: Dishoom, Manchester Hall

Review: Dishoom, Manchester Hall

FORGIVE us for thinking bad thoughts in this season of goodwill. When Dishoom announced their Manchester special it turned out to be a pie. A pie – that’s what Mancs like. OK, it could have ...

19 December 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Mana, Ancoats

Review: Mana, Ancoats

SOMETIMES the level of intensity in a ‘serious’ kitchen astonishes. Imagine how that vibrant pool of broth beneath your tangle of charred onions (below) came about? Four days of regular stirring to reduce 400 litres ...

18 December 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Ivy Asia, Spinningfields

Review: Ivy Asia, Spinningfields

IT is some time in the early Noughties. We are staying at the Metropolitan Hotel in Mayfair. The Armani-clad staff are beyond snooty cool. We dine in its restaurant, Nobu, where Boris Becker notoriously had ...

16 December 2018 by Neil Sowerby

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