Reviews

Review: The Comedor at Baratxuri, Ramsbottom

Review: The Comedor at Baratxuri, Ramsbottom

WE went back to Baratxuri to investigate their custom-made ‘Pereruela’ clay oven, commissioned from the hamlet of that name in the high mesas of Castilla. It was Sunday lunchtime with suckling pig very much on ...

18 July 2017

Out of town review: Moor Hall, Ormskirk

Out of town review: Moor Hall, Ormskirk

WHO’S benefiting most from this bold era of boundary-pushing, forage-friendly, stripped to the roots British cooking? The young tyros in the kitchen making it happen? The foodie customer prepared to brave… • any amount of ...

29 June 2017

Review: Beastro, Leftbank, Spinningfields

Review: Beastro, Leftbank, Spinningfields

THIS is such a satisfying still life. A 250g sirloin steak, cooked rare, handcut beef dripping chips, homemade bearnaise, charred leeks, a bottle of Blackjack Red Rye Saison beer and a sunflower. We’re in Beastro ...

29 June 2017 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Asha's Small Plates Bar Menu (and more)

Review: Asha's Small Plates Bar Menu (and more)

THE seductive heart of Asha’s Manchester has always been its basement Bolli Bar, where you can can almost imagine yourself rubbing shoulders with Bollywood stars such as Aishwarya Rai or Shahrukh Khan over a fragrantly ...

28 June 2017 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Randall & Aubin, Bridge Street

Review: Randall & Aubin, Bridge Street

“I WAS wrong about the lobster. It’s not from Devon but from Cornwall… you would still like?” asks our server Maria. Of course and I don’t mind one jot that my Devin crab might have ...

7 June 2017 by Neil Sowerby

Out of town review: Tom Parker at The White Swan, Fence

Out of town review: Tom Parker at The White Swan, Fence

VICTORY on last year’s Great British Menu raised Midland French chef Adam Reid’s profile through the roof. His inspired Golden Empire Apple, selected as dessert course for the Westminster banquet climax of the BBC2 cook-off ...

28 May 2017 by Phil Jones

Review: Roost/La Cantina, Heaton Moor

Review: Roost/La Cantina, Heaton Moor

ZUNI on Market Street, San Francisco remains one of my favourite eating places on earth, though I’ve only been there twice in 20 years. The decor may be mock adobe, as befits a former cactus ...

16 May 2017 by Neil Sowerby

Review: The Bird at Birtle

Review: The Bird at Birtle

DON’T you mistrust those desperate road houses plastered with signs saying ‘Great Pub’, ‘Hearty Welcome Guaranteed’, ‘Home-cooked Food Served All Day’, ‘Hand-pulled Ales’, ‘Sky Sports’, ‘Psychotic Landlord’? OK, we made the last one up, but ...

4 May 2017 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Turtle Bay, Northern Quarter

Review: Turtle Bay, Northern Quarter

SUNSETS, beaches, cocktails, music, even on one occasion a small hurricane, are what I remember best of the Caribbean. Never the food. Sure the fruit at breakfast is just off the tree and the barbecue ...

4 May 2017 by Neil Sowerby

Review: The Lowry spring menu

Review: The Lowry spring menu

SPRING has truly sprung in menus across Manchester. You wonder – was there a time before wild garlic was ubiquitous in ever upstart menu? Does the asparagus season get earlier by the year And don’t ...

24 April 2017 by Neil Sowerby

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