THE wow factor is a term too easily employed. Like legend. But both look bound to apply to a beautifully adapted basement in an unlovely stretch of Piccadilly, home to the newly arrived Bundobust. The Michelin-mentioned Leeds original is already legendary for its combination of Gujarati-influenced veggie street food and craft beer but has always felt a bit cramped (its huge popularity didn’t help).
The same can’t be said of it ‘wow factor’ Manchester counterpart, which opens to the public on Wednesday, December 14.ToM dropped in to check out its food and drink offering but was blown away by the redesign of what was a dank, underground space after Chinese buffet Metro departed. The atrium you gaze up into is the most immediately jaw dropping factor until you check out the beer range from 14 keg lines and two handpumps at the jolly looking bar.
Different to Leeds, where it was possible to pop in just for a pint, this Bundobust is foremost a dining room with the hoppy stuff as an accompaniment. Step down from the Piccadilly main entrance and you are greeted by front of house and seated along one of the communal tables or in a booth. All pretty casual with the authentic Indian snacks served in Bundobust’s trademark cardboard tubs.
We like the bespoke artworks designed by Drew Millward referencing Manchester’s industrial and the original Bollywood posters on the original white tile walls.
The open kitchen is serving up the likes of Okra Fries seasoned with black salt and mango powder (£3.50); Bundo Chaat is a satisfying medley of samosa pastry, chickpeas, potato, tamarind chutney, onion, yoghurt and turmeric noodles (£4.50), and Bundobust fave the Vada Pav is a spicy mashed potato ball coated in gram flour and fried, served in a brioche bun with chutney and hot green chillies.
It’s great to see alongside Bundobust’s stalwart Yorkshire brews from the likes of Magic Rock and Northern Monk, two cask ales from our own acclaimed Marble, PInt and Manchester Bitter, and among the kegs, the latest DIPA (version no.10) from Cloudwater, one of the closest breweries to the new outlet. This premium 9 per cent beer fetches premium prices but here its £3.50 a half, while prices for weaker beers are pretty fair.
You can see why Bundobust Leeds won SIBA’s (Society of Independent Brewers) inaugural Best Independent Craft Beer Restaurant award. For Manchester they’ve even appointed a beer sommelier, Alex Parkinson (above), currently setting up his own brewery along the Piccadilly Beer Mile.
Co-owners Mayur Patel and Marko Husak bring with them an award-winning back story (Mayur from Drighlington’s Prashad and Marko from Bradford’s Sparrow Bier Café). But this latest chapter is the most thrilling yet.
Marko told ToM: “We’re excited to be opening our doors in Manchester! It’s a great city with a lot going on. It has many similarities to Leeds in the fact that independent bars, restaurants and culture are flourishing, but it is a wonderful and unique city in its own right! I love the architecture, and the place has a real energy and buzz about it.
“We think our location is perfect. We are tucked away in a basement but we are right in the middle of the independent Northern Quarter, and the high footfall area of Piccadilly Gardens. We are happy to open not long after our new neighbours Shoryu Ramen and Jimmy’s, which shows great confidence in the regeneration of the area, and we are very close to NQ institutions like Common and Port Street Beer House.”
Bundobust, 61, Piccadilly, Manchester M1 2AQ. Kitchen hours: Mon-Thur 12pm-9.30pm, Fri-Sat 12-10pm abd Sun 12-8pm. You can pick up two dishes for £7 between 12pm and 4pm Mon to Fri.
