SADDEST restaurant news of the year – Grenache, one of Greater Manchester’s best restaurants, is closing. Chef proprietor Mike Jennings announced via Facebook last night: "We have out grown the building with our concept and without some serious investment it was impossible for us to continue."This Sunday (April 17) will see the final service at this beacon of fine dining in the unlikely setting of Walkden.
Maybe that was the problem, one that wasn’t solved during the two year tenure of Jennings and his wife Karen Deveney after they bought out previous owner Huss Abbas. It wasn’t in the right place, lacking a well-heeled customer base on its doorstep. The kind of folk who would splash out £45 on a seven course tasting menu.
I joked stupidly in one Taste of Manchester review that I had made “my belated debut as a customer after discovering Walkden isn’t so far out of Manchester and even has a train station.”
It was always worth the trek to the kind of place I’d love as my neighbourhood restaurant. Chef Jennings’ subtly accomplished food had just won Grenache the Good Food Guide regional restaurant of the year award and with Karen marshaling front of house expectations were high the pair would take it to the next level.
They brought a wealth of experience to the project. Stretford lad Jennings has cooked in some top kitchens – for Gary Rhodes, Nigel Haworth and, most influentially, Shaun Rankin on Jersey – while Karen worked for Damson, Aiden Byrne at the Church Green and Simon Rogan at L’Enclume.
Michelin, Good Food Guide and AA recommended, shortlisted for Manchester Food and Drink Awards, named best Salford’s restaurant year in year out, none of this was enough to save this indie gem. In a restaurant world dominated by corporate brands this is such a loss. TOM wishes the couple well.
Grenache, 15 Bridgewater Rd, Walkden, Worsley, Manchester M28 3JE 0161 799 8181.