IN our first look at the impressive new look Piccolino Caffe Grande we playfully cited it as part of the Italian fightback against all those cool Spanish invaders. One of those, Lunya, in the Barton Arcade, also boasts a delicious deli alongside its restaurant and bar.
TOM has stocked up on Padrones Peppers and the odd jar of Paprika there but, call us old-fashioned, our hearts still belong to the Italian archetype, stocked to the gunwales with the the Ps – Pasta Prosciutto and Parmegiano. Throw in the magical Ms Mozzarella and a spot of Mortadella envy (see below) and it’s the Perfect Package for a foodie fightback at Salvi’s.
Maurizio (pictured above) and Claire Cecco’s Corn Exchange HQ stocks all of these and much more, while for good measure their new basement restaurant, well marshaled by MD Giorgio Fontana, has upped its game big time (see review), benefiting from those in situ deli resources (there are two other city centre sites – addresses below).
A recent visit was to check out the shelf to plate template, inspired by Maurizio’s Neapolitan heritage (Salvi is his father’s name) and the Campania hinterland that stokes that culinary hotbed with authentic artisan produce.
Take “Pizzatella” appetisers, where saffron infused dough is lightly fried and served with a variety of combinations from pumpkin cream with smoked mozzarella and fried pancetta to ‘raw’ Pecorino with pear and fig puree – all ingredients to be found in the deli upstairs.
Smoked mozzarella featured again in Paccheri con taleggio, where large pasta tubes were stuffed with it and some creamy tallegio. Then came Fagioli cipolla al balsamico tonno scottato e stracciatella (beans, onion, balsamic tuna and stracciatella, soupy mozzarella and cream).
Satisfying, rustic food matched by equally satisfying wine matches from Salvi’s intriguing regional list. I knew Pecorino from the Marche but Passerina, less minerally, more citrusy from an indigenous varietal, was a revelation. Bolgheri’s ‘Super-Tuscan’ Caccia Al Piano was less of a surprise, a predominantly Merlot blend offering ripe blackberry and vanilla flavours.
Salvi’s Mozzarella Bar, Unit 22b Corn Exchange, Exchange Square M4 3 TR. 0161 222 8021; Salvi’s Cucina, 19 John Dalton Street M2 6FW. 0161 222 8090; Salvi’s Rosticceria, 19 John Dalton Street M2 6FW. 0161 222 8090. www.salvismanchester.co.uk
