By Neil Sowerby
IN our eyes, the original Alchemist in Spinningfields always lacked the oomph of Australasia, Artisan or Manchester House, its Living Ventures stablemates.
Now a total overhaul that has doubled it in size, creating a proper 116-cover all-day dining restaurant out of a slice of what was the All Saints store (Iberica occupy the remainder – whatever happened to all the sewing machines in their window?), has turned leadenness into gold.
That’s Alchemy for you. Typically Tim Bacon themed decor, the magpie horde runs to hundreds of apothecary bottles and vials on high shelves, a logistical nightmare for cleaning staff but, like the spectacular light fittings, a joy to behold from cosy leather booths.
The menu has been tweaked, too, but not dramatically. In a preview lunch we stuck to their tried and tested fajitas with fillet steak (£12.95) after a mix and match of starters. All were immaculately done, from the new, shouty open kitchen – chicken laksa skewers, beer battered prawn lollipops, baby back ribs and chicory leaves stuffed with apple, walnut and Gorgonzola, all priced around a fiver and above
We finished with warm chocolate fudge cake (£5.95) and salted caramel cheesecake (£5.50) paired with excellent coffee. The fairly-priced wine list fails to excite and they obviously would direct beer geeks to another LV stalwart, the adjacent Oast House.
Alchemist, 3 Hardman Street, Manchester M3 3HF. 0161 817 2950, http://thealchemist.uk.com/spinningfields