It's an exciting time for the food scene in Manchester. With 28 new restaurants already having launched this year, and around 30 more expected, 2015 is shaping up to be a corker. Understandably, much of the press has been focused on these new eateries, but there are a few Manchester institutions that have been steadily going from strength to strength, setting the scene for this boom in food and drink.
Pioneers such as the TNQ Restaurant and Bar, established in 2004, opened at the forefront of the cultural movement in the Northern Quarter. Since then, they have been serving quality food and feeding Manchester’s blossoming foodie scene. I caught up with head chef Anthony Fielden to learn more about his rise to success and find out what’s in store for TNQ.
So tell us about your journey as a chef. How did you get to be where you are now?
I’ve never been to catering college. I have no qualifications in cooking, I just learnt on the job. Since I was 17, I started off doing salads and cold starters at the first restaurant in Swinton. Within a couple of years I moved my way up, until I was a sous chef at a place in Monton. Then I moved on to Piccolino not long after it first opened.
After that I went to Albert’s Shed – that was for around four and a half years. I took my first head chef job there when I had just turned 23.
And that’s a huge amount of covers to run as your first head chef role?
We had very busy days in the summer – up to about 1000 people with weddings, restaurant service, catering. It was pretty crazy.
I did progress really really quickly, and when I was offered the job as head chef at Albert’s I wasn’t too sure about it. I thought- I’m only 23, and at the time it was one of the biggest sites in Manchester. But my girlfriend at the time – who is now my wife –said, just go for it, what’s the worst that can happen. So I went for it and never looked back.
It was about four and a half years there and then I came to TNQ. I’ve been here about eight years now. It's quite a long time to work somewhere and stay in one place but I’ve been given free reign to do what I want - keeping within British and local produce. It’s just been getting better year on year.
How big is your kitchen team at TNQ?
There’s five chefs, so it’s quite a small team. We have a 17 year old, Bryony, who’s never been in the kitchen before, so she’s started as an apprentice for a year.
She’s doing really well. It’s one of the best things about the job, being able to nurture and bring young people up. It’s quite a young team and it’s rewarding to teach young people, to train them and pass on the knowledge that you’ve accumulated.
So is there a message you try and pass on to young chefs working for you now?
You can achieve whatever you want to achieve. No one’s going to hand it to you on a plate, you’ve got to go and get it for yourself. You’ve just got to be the best you can be. Work hard and reap the benefits later.
Where do you get the inspiration to keep bettering yourselves at TNQ?
We’ve started visiting some really nice top end restaurants around the UK and occasionally going abroad. You’ve got to get there and back in day. We call it ‘Lads What Lunch’. It’s great to get out of the kitchen and go for a really nice meal somewhere and see what other people are doing.
Your favorite place you’ve visited so far?
We went to Sat Bains in Nottingham, that was really, really good. Very technical food. The amount of effort and attention to detail in one little dish was phenomenal, there were so many different components. The setting is really weird - just down this little track next to a motorway – but the food is absolutely stunning.
We went to another place called Chapter One in Dublin, that’s an amazing place. Also Lima, a Peruvian place in London, which was good. In a couple of weeks we’re off to one called Bon Bon in Brussels. We’ll fly there in the morning and fly back in the evening after lunch.
We’ve started doing it with staff here as well, its nice to take staff out and do a bit of research and reward them for all their hard work.
How would you describe the kind of cooking that people can find here?
Honest, decent, good food. As local as possible. Everything is fresh, no fuss and faff. It’s open to all people and accessible. We try not to mess around with things too much and let the quality of ingredients speak for themselves.
We also bake all of our own bread every day. Little things like that make such a difference, people don’t tend to do it anymore. It’s one of those things which young chefs very rarely get to do.
There’s something good for the soul about making bread. Such simple ingredients and you end up with something that just tastes fantastic. It’s magic. I bake bread with my eldest daughter at home. She’s just two and a half, and when it’s rising she’s like, ‘wait for the magic!’
Tell us about the next gourmet night at TNQ.
We’ve been doing it for a good few years now – this one’s going to be a Perrier-Jouëtchampagne and seafood night. It’s just a classic combination – champagne and seafood. We’ll have oysters, scallop ceviche, cured salmon, smoked salmon cream and a lemon balm jelly and yuzu dressing.
It will be six courses including canapés with different champagne to match each one. We’ll have live music with a French singer. It’s brilliant value money. £70 for a full night of entertainment and excellent food.
After that we’ve got the game night in October – the game season is just starting and we’ll get some venison, rabbit, different birds like partridge and pigeon. We’ll get some big bold reds to go with that. Again, it’s a really good night, with six courses, wine and music.
Finally, do you have a dish at TNQ that typifies your cooking style?
We’ve always had suckling pig on the menu – from Pugh’s Piglets. He raises all the pigs on the farm, and makes porchetta rolls. Pork is such underrated meat – I think it's fantastic.
Overall, through the years we have been evolving. We’re always learning and pushing ourselves.
Book now for the next gourmet night at TNQ Restaurant and Bar on 0161 832 7115
@TNQrestaurant
tnq.co.uk
108 High Street, Manchester
In association with TNQ Restaurant and Bar