28 November 2018 by Neil Sowerby

AN over-excited press release trumpets Mamucium as ‘an epicurean’s playground’ – not a plaudit attached before to anywhere in the immediate vicinity of Victoria Station. And certainly that ‘Hipster Burgers’ van surfing the culinary Zeitgeist next to WH Smith’s doesn’t aspire in that direction.

The oddly titled Mamucium restaurant, inside the new, cylindrical Hotel Indigo, certainly does with exec chef Andrew Green bringing across from the much grander Lowry Hotel the style of food that won two AA rosettes for its River Restaurant when he was head chef there.

Glossop-born Andrew (below) has released his signature ‘Modern British’ menu ahead of Indigo opening on Wednesday, November 28 and once again he taps into his Northern culinary  roots with a certain creative licence (let’s avoid the overworked ‘twist’). Local sourcing was his strong point at The Lowry, so expect the same here.

Hearty show-stopper among the starters is Mamucium’s Lancashire Onion Soup. A Northern take on the classic French Onion Soup, this dish will include onion cooked in delicately constructed lamb broth, topped off with a Lancashire cheese croute. Alternatively try the Smoked Cheshire Beef Hash and Manchester Smoke House Salmon.

Among the mains look out for seven ‘signature’ dishes including a Lancashire Hot Pot prepared using Yew Tree Farm’s finest cannon of lamb (main picture) or Goosnargh Chicken, which is served with Blackstick Blue creamed potatoes (below)

The ‘Grilled’ section, features premium and succulent cuts of beef, pork and fish, which are simply seasoned and grilled. The main attraction here being the Lancashire beef, which is aged for 28 days in a Himalayan salt chamber.

Desserts inevitably include the  Mamucium Manchester Tart – a fresh custard tart, filled with delicious homemade raspberry jam, banana crisps and shaved coconut; a Bakewell Steamed Sponge served with vanilla pod ice cream, and Warm Mini Eccles Cakes with Trinity burnt cream, caramel crumb and wild berries.

Andrew told ToM: “As a Northerner born and bred, my inspiration and love of food lies in popular British cuisine, but I am also passionate about innovation and love to put my own unique spin on classic dishes. 

“Throughout my career I have always focused on using seasonal and, where possible, locally sourced ingredients to produce dishes that everyone will enjoy no matter what their taste. I have spent months building up an unrivalled chain of premium local suppliers for Mamucium, cherry picking the best from the local area to ensure that we use the highest quality ingredients that deliver optimum flavour.”

So why Mancumium? Apparently, it’s name after the Roman fort that was the birthplace of modern Manchester. The 120-seat restaurant is set within the newly developed City Buildings development, next to Victoria Station. The venue’s centrepiece will be a stunning, Silestone and brass bar area.

In addition to the main menu, Andrew has also designed a separate two and three course ‘Statuto’ set menu. Highlights include traditional starters such as Atlantic prawn and crayfish cocktail, and prosciutto, compressed melon, rocket and parmesan salad; mains of fish and chips or wild boar tortelloni; and for after blueberry pavlova with crème Chantilly and Vimto blueberries, or a trio of regional cheeses. Plus there’s a kids’ menu.

For snackier stuff investigate M Café, alocated within the original part of the beautifully restored Grade ll listed City Buildings. 

Mamucium is open daily for lunch and dinner from 11.30am to 10.30pm Monday to Thursday, and 12pm to 10.30pm on Friday and Saturday.  To make a reservation call 0161 359 7499 or visit. M Café is open Monday to Friday 7am to 6pm and 8am to 6pm on Saturday and Sunday.