ODD to remember a time when Trove was a bold pioneer in Levenshulme, dispensing sourdough and a contemporary take on casual food. The original’s still there at No.1032 in the endless highway that is Stockport Road, while the brand has moved on to Ancoats, evolving next door on Murray Street into ToM fave, Erst.
At No.1044 a newcomer is emblematic of the new wave of indie operators in their wake invading the Levy strip. Nordie is for us the perfect neighbourhood bar dispensing an informed selection of craft beer and natural wines with bar snacks in the pipeline.
Set in a former tyre depot, it is stripped back to the bare concrete and natural wood, orange chairs providing a splash of colour. It’s the brainchild of Derry-born Oddie McClintock (above), former bar manager at The Pilcrow at NOMA, and his partner, Megan Hyland, Nordie isn’t name checking Scandi trends – it’s just his Ulster take on things Northern.
Our tipple tips (though the beer list is constantly mutating): Pomona Island Pale, Siren Calypso or the Verdant Extra Pale Ale. They are pleased with the way entry level natural wines have been accepted; for a more challenging take on such wines made with minimal chemical and technological intervention try their Pink Moustache Cinsault/Shiraz (£32, also available by the glass). From South Africa’s Swartland region, it is incredibly pale with a whack of uncompromising red fruit.
Nearby, at 1030, The Talleyrand styles itself as traditional boozer meets European beer cafe, offering space for gigs, theatre productions and artists to showcase their work.
Across the road at No.815 is a more-beer centric bar, Station Hop. This bottle shop and taproom was opened last year by Amanda Finch, 35, and her partner Chris Buxton, 35. Regular quizzes, live music and art exhibitions give it a community feel, too.
In his company the four-year-old Fred’s Ale House seems like a veteran. Buy an ale there and check out the outstanding Italian pop-up, Cibus (we gave it four stars).
Next up? The former TSB bank at 574 Stockport Road should open in late April as a bar called Overdraught. Specialising in, you got it, draught beers.
Nordie, 1044 Stockport Rd, Manchester M19 3WX.