AS diners we pay so much attention to what’s on the plate before us, often capturing on camera the artful arrangement of foams, micro leaves and ‘lamb three ways’, that we ignore what’s hanging above us. Not a sword of Damocles – though totting up a hefty bill in our head can feel like that. No, I’m referring to light fittings. Dimmed or dazzling, they contribute to the occasion. I’ve been pondering them of late. Well, more specifically – chandeliers, of the impressive sort.
Compare and contrast the specifically commissioned mirror ball-like globes (above) that grace Simon Rogan at The French in the centre of Manchester with the spectacular wheels of crystal (below) salvaged from a cruise ship that dominate the Peacock Room at Bamford out in the sticks. The first is in a Farrow and Ball take on a Versailles antechamber, the second in an over-florid wedding venue adjunct.
I’ve been in both of late. The French has basked in public and critical adulation since it opened three years ago in an iconic setting (check out my report on Adam Reid’s coming of age during the Simon Rogan Chef Week), so needs no introduction. The Peacock Room struts its stuff under the radar somewhat, despite two AA rosettes and a Michelin Knife and Fork award, but it aims to fly with a new chef and a summer menu offer called ‘Discounted Decadence’.
Dave Broderick took over as head chef in March, with former head chef Rob Walker being promoted to exec chef for the whole Deckers group, who run a string of establishments across the Pennine foothills. The culinary flagship is undoubtedly the Peacock Room down a leafy lane off Bury and Rochdale Old Road (the B622). It’s part of the Crimble Hall complex, once the home of 19th century photographer and mill owner Joseph Fenton.
The impressive stone core has been much added onto (clue: there’s a simpler grill restaurant called The Conservatory). The manicured lawns look perfect for those wedding pictures. The entrance to the Peacock Room is through double doors with gilded peacocks handles, cheeky kitsch that I like. The Art Deco theme continues inside the 85 cover dining room.
It obviously has a loyal, middle-aged clientele in this neck of the woods, rivalling Nutter’s in Norden. You sense that Rob Walker, who has a background in some impressive Michelin-starred kitchens, wants to up its game as a destination restaurant without scaring off the natives. This was evidenced by a recent showcasing of chef Broderick’s dishes.
A murky mushroom consomme amuse with matching beignet didn’t come off but a classic combo of perfectly seared scallops with capers, sultanas and pickled cauliflower was excellent s was a moist tranche of halibut against an assertive backdrop of chorizo, charred aubergine and a pine nut crumble. Loin of lamb was ambitiously paired with sheep’s milk yoghurt, peas, anchovies and wild garlic, all of which came off despite the lamb being slightly overcooked.
After a pre-dessert of blackcurrant and liquorice came an immaculate fig tarte tatin with lemon verbena ice cream, evidence from both of a skilled hand on the ice churn. All in all, a food offering that follows the Walker brief well. Whether such quality will lure foodies seeking modish fireworks on the plate into the Rochdale hinterland remains to be seen. For chandelier geeks, it’s a must.
The Peacock Room, Crimble Hall, Bamford, Rochdale OL11 4AD. Tel: 01706 368591. Note, it is closed Mondays and Tuesdays. The midweek offer, Discounted Decadence, allows diners a 10 per cent discount off one course, 20 per cent off two courses and 30 per cent off three courses, on selected dishes. This offer is available Wednesday to Friday lunchtimes from 12pm-2pm and from 6.30pm-9pm on Wednesdays and Thursdays.