THE 18th Brasserie Blanc was opened in Knutsford by the ebullient French chef who has embodied the French culinary arts in Britain for three decades.
No one dining in the former Loch Fyne premises in the Royal George Building is going to get the two Michelin star experience to be found at Raymond Blanc’s flagship Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons but the bill will be considerably more modest. Instead, expect a tour of French domestic classics – the dishes of Maman Blanc that inspired young Raymond in his native Besancon plus a few terroirless dishes, chilli and ginger squid or burgers and the like. that pop up on bistro menus. Here’s a link to the a la carte. There’s even a nod to the new world on a wine list big on Muscadet, Beaujolais and other generic French staples.
The restaurant refit is smart but a bit bland, trailing behind the francophile whimsy of veteran rival the Belle Epoque down the road, but TOM expects it to do a well in a well-off town with surprisingly few fine dining options.
The Grade II-listed building was once topped by an assembly hall where great authors, including Elizabeth Gaskell, would deliver public readings. The staircase she and other celebrated writers walked is now listed and has been restored as the centrepiece of the 120-cover Brasserie.
On launch night, Blanc said that despite the failure of his Petit Blanc off Chapel walks seven years ago his Brasserie team were on the lookout for a more suitable city centre site. Times have changed. Raymond is pictured below with his exec chef Clive Fretwell, who helped create the Knutsford menu.
Brasserie Blanc, Royal George Building, Regent Street, Knutsford WA16 6GR. 01565 622900.
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