CONGRATULATIONS to George Bergier currently celebrating 50 years in the hospitality trade a year on from collecting an Industry Legend gong in the 2017 Imbibe Magazine Awards. Even more than that LS Lowry bronze statue at the bar or the corn beef hash signature dish it’s hard to envisage Sam’s Chop House without its hugely knowledgeable sommelier.
When ToM dropped in for a Sunday dinner our aim was the substantial steak and kidney pudding with handcut chips but there’s a reduced menu Sabbath evenings. No worries, there was that hash, on the menu across all three Chop Houses as a main or mini (it’s all relative) starter version but, subectively, in its element here in this Chapel Walks basement.
If ‘corned beef’ conjures up Fray Bentos think again. This is the real thing with the beef ‘corned’ in salt brine with various pickling spices – the Chop House folk won’t divulge their secret recipe. Aftr 10 days in the making, it comes to table as a chunky disc of beef, sautéed potato cubes and creamed onions with soft poached egg and crispy dry-cured bacon on top (£14.95).
George doesn’t work Sundays, but was happy to give some recommendations for our visit – from his bin-end list or the ‘latest discoveries’ section. There are some seriously good bargains among Clarets and Burgundies in the former, but we went for a very affordable ‘discovery’, Pedra Basta (£26) from Portugal’s Alentejo region. It’s a dark brooding red, a blend of indigenous grapes and Cabernet Sauvignon. Figgy on the nose, it offers abundant ripe fruit and matched the generosity of the hash.
Sadly, it may be the last vintage. The vineyard owner, wine writer and Bergier pal Richard Mayson, is selling up. ToM would recommend ordering a bottle at Sam’s while stocks last. Or just ask Mr Bergier to recommend an alternative.
Sam’s Chop House, Back Pool Fold, Manchester M2 1HN. 0161 834 3210.
