Reviews

Review: Lily’s Indian Vegetarian Cuisine, Ashton-under-Lyne

Review: Lily’s Indian Vegetarian Cuisine, Ashton-under-Lyne

A WET Wednesday evening in early February found TOM in one of Greater Manchester's far eastern outskirts. Ashton-under-Lyne had, earlier in the day, been a bustling town centre but at 6pm people are scarce; traffic ...

13 February 2019 by Phil Jones

Review: Michelin-starred White Swan tasting menu

Review: Michelin-starred White Swan tasting menu

TURBOT two ways and a journey to the source explain what makes the tasting menu tick at the North West’s newest Michelin star restaurant. We make no apologies for straying outside Manchester to reflect on ...

8 February 2019 by Neil Sowerby

Review: The Laureate, Crowne Plaza – Oxford Road

Review: The Laureate, Crowne Plaza – Oxford Road

SEA buckthorn’s off. Chef’s apologising over a no-show for these hard-to-forage coastal berries. Their vivid flavour should have complemented the chocolate fondant with hazelnut and tonka bean ice cream (below), but there’d been a blip ...

28 January 2019 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Folk & Soul, Northern Quarter

Review: Folk & Soul, Northern Quarter

LIKE the old pub tease ‘free beer tomorrow’ ‘new chef, new menu’ is a mantra critics have to confront. Sometimes though you must review what’s on your plate, not promises, and say why it has ...

4 January 2019

Review: Dishoom, Manchester Hall

Review: Dishoom, Manchester Hall

FORGIVE us for thinking bad thoughts in this season of goodwill. When Dishoom announced their Manchester special it turned out to be a pie. A pie – that’s what Mancs like. OK, it could have ...

19 December 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Mana, Ancoats

Review: Mana, Ancoats

SOMETIMES the level of intensity in a ‘serious’ kitchen astonishes. Imagine how that vibrant pool of broth beneath your tangle of charred onions (below) came about? Four days of regular stirring to reduce 400 litres ...

18 December 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Ivy Asia, Spinningfields

Review: Ivy Asia, Spinningfields

IT is some time in the early Noughties. We are staying at the Metropolitan Hotel in Mayfair. The Armani-clad staff are beyond snooty cool. We dine in its restaurant, Nobu, where Boris Becker notoriously had ...

16 December 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Elnecot Ancoats Winter Menu

Review: Elnecot Ancoats Winter Menu

FINE tuning a small plate offering is a tricky task. On a tapas menu you’d be astonished if albondigas, padron peppers, croquetas and tortillas were suddenly ditched. Salford’s new Spanish arrival Porta offers these and ...

12 December 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Allotment on Lloyd Street

Review: Allotment on Lloyd Street

JONATHAN Gold, the legendary Los Angeles Times food critic who died this year, never reviewed a restaurant on one visit alone. In City of Gold, the documentary that charted his groundbreaking championing of street food ...

10 December 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Andrew Green at Mamucium

Review: Andrew Green at Mamucium

FIRST things first. It’s pronounced Mah Moo See Um. It’s a variation on Mancunium, the Roman fort in Castlefield from which, mist-shrouded legend has it, Manchester sprung. Etymology nerds note it means breast-shaped hill. Mamucium ...

7 December 2018 by Neil Sowerby

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