Reviews

Review: Grafene, city centre

Review: Grafene, city centre

TIMES food critic Giles Coren lamented the other week how his role meant he never went back to any restaurant he loved. Novelty is all in the review game. More so for a national scribe ...

14 June 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: ‘Evening Tea’ at the Midland Hotel

Review: ‘Evening Tea’ at the Midland Hotel

JUST as Breakfast begat Brunch it was inevitable that Afternoon Tea might one day morph into Evening Tea. Not so very different from that traditional hearty Northern High Tea, maybe, only posher. Certainly at The ...

1 June 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Elnecot Summer Menu

Review: Elnecot Summer Menu

SMALL plates are not going to go away any time soon. Grazing seems to match the attention span of a millennial media surfer. Download six dishes between us – we’re no longer attached to the ...

22 May 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Umezushi, Mirabel Street

Review: Umezushi, Mirabel Street

IT is the most expensive single prawn I’ve ever eaten – and the most delicious. A deep-sea Carabinero, so called because the striking colour of the shells matches that of a Spanish policeman’s uniform. In ...

14 May 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: The Creameries, Chorlton

Review: The Creameries, Chorlton

IDEALISM is a precious commodity. One to be treasured in a world where food can be as fake as the news. The Creameries has set itself a standard as outlined by co-owner Soo Wilkinson prior ...

11 May 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review; Indian Tiffin Room

Review; Indian Tiffin Room

WE went to Indian Tiffin Room with the best of plant-based intentions. Ideally to promote Indian regional food as the perfect way to celebrate National Vegetarian Week (May 14-20). Then we spotted grilled lamb chops ...

10 May 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Asha's vegetarian offering

Review: Asha's vegetarian offering

IT is apparently a myth – sacred cow even – that the Indian diet is predominantly vegetarian, though it’s a minefield trying to pin down the exact demographic region by region, religious community by community. ...

23 April 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Nat Tofan at Manchester House

Review: Nat Tofan at Manchester House

MAYBE it was the inner socialist raging inside ToM’s representative but he balked at the Millionaire’s Sandwich when it made its Manchester House debut during the unveiling of new exec chef Nat Tofan’s spring menu. ...

17 April 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: The Rivals at The Royal Exchange

Review: The Rivals at The Royal Exchange

THEY named the Royal Exchange’s current restaurant after the theatre’s first production, Sheridan’s The Rivals. Framed programme extracts hanging in the reinvented dining space make me suddenly feel old. Quoth the Ancient Critic casting his ...

12 April 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Rudy's Pizza, Peter Street

Review: Rudy's Pizza, Peter Street

ONCE upon a time when fish and chips was unanimously the nation’s favourite fast food Harry Ramsden’s was founded in a wooden hut north of Leeds. Within three years canny Harry had moved into a ...

11 April 2018 by Neil Sowerby

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