Reviews

Review: Nat Tofan at Manchester House

Review: Nat Tofan at Manchester House

MAYBE it was the inner socialist raging inside ToM’s representative but he balked at the Millionaire’s Sandwich when it made its Manchester House debut during the unveiling of new exec chef Nat Tofan’s spring menu. ...

17 April 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: The Rivals at The Royal Exchange

Review: The Rivals at The Royal Exchange

THEY named the Royal Exchange’s current restaurant after the theatre’s first production, Sheridan’s The Rivals. Framed programme extracts hanging in the reinvented dining space make me suddenly feel old. Quoth the Ancient Critic casting his ...

12 April 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Rudy's Pizza, Peter Street

Review: Rudy's Pizza, Peter Street

ONCE upon a time when fish and chips was unanimously the nation’s favourite fast food Harry Ramsden’s was founded in a wooden hut north of Leeds. Within three years canny Harry had moved into a ...

11 April 2018 by Neil Sowerby

REVIEW: THE RELAUNCHED RABBIT IN THE MOON

REVIEW: THE RELAUNCHED RABBIT IN THE MOON

WITH apologies to the Stone Roses, this is the resurrection, this is the light, this is a Rabbit in the Moon that shines like never before. Out of this world? It’s finally getting there. Relaunches ...

6 April 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: 20 Stories

Review: 20 Stories

SETTLE down. That’s what critics should let a restaurant do before any forensic examination. All that soft launch shenanigans put to bed, the PR stunts shuffled off, the inevitable menu tweaks (lose that broccoli quiche) ...

29 March 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Sunday roast at Elnecot

Review: Sunday roast at Elnecot

THE treadmill of reviewing in a frenetic food and drink scene means that we rarely get to revisit an immediate favourite. OK, you’re not feeling sorry for us at all, but you get the drift. ...

22 March 2018

Review: Blanchflower, Altrincham

Review: Blanchflower, Altrincham

WOULD you book a restaurant on the strength of its soundtrack? Thought not. Unless your idea of a good time is lashings of Van Halen and a Hard Rock Jumbo Combo. On an early Friday ...

15 March 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Ben Mounsey at Grafene

Review: Ben Mounsey at Grafene

IT’S a hostage to fortune lauding a young chef to the skies. A reviewing colleague of a certain girth (and nobody’s fool) gave an unprecedented score to a new restaurant based upon its young chef ...

7 March 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: The Patron, Northern Quarter

Review: The Patron, Northern Quarter

THE Northern Quarter periodically subscribes to a New York vibe. It must be all those Big Apple on the cheap movie location shots it has hosted. Some bars try for it and get it, notably ...

28 February 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Bundobust new menu

Review: Bundobust new menu

NELSON Wang, now there’s a name to conjure with. Not on your radar the Mumbai restaurateur of Chinese lineage who invented Manchurian Chicken in the Seventies? Me neither until an encounter with the Gobi Mushroom ...

12 February 2018 by Neil Sowerby

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