Reviews

Review: Sunday roast at Elnecot

Review: Sunday roast at Elnecot

THE treadmill of reviewing in a frenetic food and drink scene means that we rarely get to revisit an immediate favourite. OK, you’re not feeling sorry for us at all, but you get the drift. ...

22 March 2018

Review: Blanchflower, Altrincham

Review: Blanchflower, Altrincham

WOULD you book a restaurant on the strength of its soundtrack? Thought not. Unless your idea of a good time is lashings of Van Halen and a Hard Rock Jumbo Combo. On an early Friday ...

15 March 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Ben Mounsey at Grafene

Review: Ben Mounsey at Grafene

IT’S a hostage to fortune lauding a young chef to the skies. A reviewing colleague of a certain girth (and nobody’s fool) gave an unprecedented score to a new restaurant based upon its young chef ...

7 March 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: The Patron, Northern Quarter

Review: The Patron, Northern Quarter

THE Northern Quarter periodically subscribes to a New York vibe. It must be all those Big Apple on the cheap movie location shots it has hosted. Some bars try for it and get it, notably ...

28 February 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Bundobust new menu

Review: Bundobust new menu

NELSON Wang, now there’s a name to conjure with. Not on your radar the Mumbai restaurateur of Chinese lineage who invented Manchurian Chicken in the Seventies? Me neither until an encounter with the Gobi Mushroom ...

12 February 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Yu, Alderley Edge

Review: Yu, Alderley Edge

DURING a sojourn in Hong Kong I never encountered a deconstructed duck. I saw a man deconstructing several live snakes with a machete and declined the resulting soup. But in the teeming melting pot of ...

9 February 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Australasia, Spinningfields

Review: Australasia, Spinningfields

AUSTRALASIA was always a loving nod to creator Tim Bacon’s Aussie roots, where Pacific Rim cuisine and fruity New World wine had gradually ousted the old Commonwealth pie and tinny culture. Welcome to the Republic ...

7 February 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Mr Cooper's, Midland Hotel

Review: Mr Cooper's, Midland Hotel

IT’S a year since The Midland Hotel’s flagship restaurant was successfully repositioned as Adam Reid at The French following the departure of Simon Rogan. Under the radar during all this went Rogan’s stylishly workaday second ...

31 January 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Masons at Manchester Hall

Review: Masons at Manchester Hall

BEING flexitarian doesn't mean I'm going to forsake the recommended rump of lamb. After all, I‘ve not taken the holier than thou Veganuary ‘pledge’, merely played the role of fellow traveller in cooking an assortment ...

25 January 2018

Out of town: The HInchliffe Arms

Out of town: The HInchliffe Arms

THE dish above is quiet perfection – just a light pastry case filled with stewed mushrooms and spinach, then dusted with parmesan. At just £7, it put a marker down for a parade of accomplished ...

15 January 2018 by Neil Sowerby

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