Reviews

Review: Shoryu Ramen, Piccadilly Gardens

Review: Shoryu Ramen, Piccadilly Gardens

IT’S no shame to slurp loudly when sucking up ramen from its bone stock. In noodle bars in the southern Japanese city of Fukuoka, where the benchmark Tonkotsu ramen originated, all around it must be ...

23 November 2016 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Albert's Schloss Sunday Roast

Review: Albert's Schloss Sunday Roast

BAR of the Year in the 2016 Manchester Food and Drink Awards, Albert’s Schloss refuses to rest on its laurels. Some might say it is straying from its Germanic culinary template, but the arrival of ...

14 November 2016 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Hispi, Didsbury

Review: Hispi, Didsbury

TO the point. Restaurant reviews sometimes are. We are going to take Gary Usher at his word. On the opening night of his third bistro, Hispi, he told me: “I don’t want this to be ...

1 November 2016

Review: My Thai, John Dalton Street

Review: My Thai, John Dalton Street

SPLENDID Kitchen was part of that first flurry of restaurant closures back in June that generated a spate of media jeremiads (lovely word) about the whole scene being doomed. This was – remarkably – pre-Brexit, ...

1 September 2016

Review: Matt White Goes Trimango at Tariff and Dale

Review: Matt White Goes Trimango at Tariff and Dale

I NEVER thought it was possible. The stuff dreams were made of. Not one, not two, but three meals in one day containing mango. But I did it. I achieved the impossible dream. I mean, ...

24 August 2016 by Matt White

Review: Indique, West Didsbury

Review: Indique, West Didsbury

I THINK I’ve found the best Indian restaurant in town. Open just three months and still under the radar despite generating a local Didsbury buzz. Best start with what it doesn’t do. It doesn’t hang ...

15 August 2016 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Grafene, city centre

Review: Grafene, city centre

ON the evening £1.5m Menagerie unleashed its VIP launch bash – cue paparazzi snapping C-list lovelies – I tickled my palate with a tasting menu in Grafene, which itself has spent a considerable amount of ...

15 August 2016 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Squid Ink, Ancoats

Review: Squid Ink, Ancoats

RESTAURANTS named after ingredients I’ve always had a problem with. Even when there are damned good examples around – Damson, Brassica, Beef and Pudding. And don’t forget Gordon Ramsay began his Michelin-starred ascent to greatness ...

26 July 2016 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Iberica Spinningfields summer menu

Review: Iberica Spinningfields summer menu

ONE of the most amazing culinary collaborations Manchester has witnessed came in May when superstar Quique Dacosta, who holds three Michelin stars for his ‘Quique Dacosta' restaurant in Denia and one Michelin star at ‘El ...

26 July 2016 by Neil Sowerby

Review: The Osteria at Norden

Review: The Osteria at Norden

IT’s hardly a case of mass osteria. The last one I can recall in this region was the Osteria Mauro in Cheshire’s leafy, footballer-rich Mottram St Andrew. It was run until his 2012 retirement by ...

13 July 2016 by Neil Sowerby

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