A celebration of champion reds at Evuna

28 May 2009

Lisa Higginson

As the final whistle blew, deflated fans across Manchester bowed their heads in shame, their championship dream shattered. But while the rest of the city mourned the mighty reds on Wednesday night, there was no such sullen mood at Deansgate tapas gem Evuna, where a celebration of Spain’s own mighty reds was underway.

While it was sheer coincidence that the restaurant’s Tempranillo wine tasting evening was taking place on the same night as the Champion’s League final, the event had been cleverly tailored to fit in with the football. Tables were cleared to make way for a plasma screen and staff donned football colours in preparation for the European clash.

Upon arrival, I was handed a chilled glass of Parxet Brut Reserva (£18). This was a deliciously smooth drop which delivered delicate sweetness and subtle peach flavours. I could have happily sipped this all night, along with the Parxet 100 per cent Chardonnay (£17) which followed as a second aperitif.

With the restaurant full, Evuna manager and wine connoisseur Jane Dowler kicked-off the tasting with a short talk about Tempranillo – one of Spain’s most famous native grapes. Jane explained that the grape was at its best in top Riojas, where oak ageing was employed to generate increased complexity. She then went on to describe how newer wines from the region were darker with more dynamic fruit flavours.

First on the list was Melquior Joven (£12), a young wine made from 100 per cent Tempranillo with no aging in oak. In the glass, this wine looked very dark but it was incredibly light and smooth in the mouth with gentle tones of blackberry. Jane explained how the wine was perfectly paired with blue cheese and I was in agreeance after being offered a slice to try the two together.

The second wine of the evening was Abando Crianza (£15), which had been aged for two years, with six months in oak. The ageing process meant this drop had a deeper fruit flavour with a hint of spice and a caramel scent. Spanish Manchego cheese was served alongside this wine and its mild, creamy flavour certainly complimented the berry bouquet.

From there we moved onto the Vina Hermosa Reserva (£15). After being aged for three years, with 12 months in oak, this wine was much more full-bodied and possessed rich fruit flavours yet was still smooth. Being a more robust drop, the wine was served with warm chorizo and the spice of the paprika really matched up to the flavourful Reserva. Each of these bespoke reds was stunning in its own right – and that is coming from a loyal white wine drinker.

Time was called on the tasting in time for the match, but the wine continued to generously flow alongside a selection of Evuna’s excellent homemade tapas, including tortilla, mussels, patatas and an array of canapés, which circled the room. And when Barcelona snatched the sporting title, there was probably no better place to be in Manchester than inside the friendly Spanish hideaway.

Evuna holds regular wine tastings and stocks a wide range of Spanish wines imported from family-run vineyards.

Evuna, 227-279 Deansgate, Manchester, M3 4EW

T: 0161 819 2752
W: www.evuna.com

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