Lisa Higginson
As one of the cityâs most established dining destinations, The River Restaurant has a firm following of foodies that flock from far and wide to indulge in its offerings. While the opportunity for a sneaky celeb spot while pretending to preside over the menu might be a draw for some customers, it is the accomplished classical cooking that lures the majority of them into this stylish eatery.
There is no denying the air of luxury that emanates from inside The Lowry Hotel as soon as you enter the illustrious lobby and climb the stairs up to the restaurant and bar. Our visit on a warm Friday evening began on the outdoor terrace and while the view from here leaves much to be desired, the cocktails certainly donât. From the bespoke River Bar cocktail menu, we selected two fresh fruit and vodka creations (£9.50 each), which were worthy rivals of those served up in several of the cityâs cocktail hotspots.
Tables are dressed with white linen and polished silverware inside the restaurant and a peppering of green seating creates a stylish edge. The space is suitably comfortable and is characteristic of a classy hotel restaurant, with the service to match. From the tailored and frequently changing wine list, which showcases an expert knowledge of all varieties of grape, we selected a bottle of the South African Oude Berg Chenin Blanc Western Cape 2007 (£17.50). Iâm not a huge Chenin Blanc fan as I often find the variety too sweet, but this was well-balanced with peach hints and a soft finish.
We dined on the Market Menu (£25 for three courses), which offers three choices of seasonal dishes for each course. My Grilled Mackerel on toast with broad beans was an excellent start to proceedings; the modest sized fillet of soft mackerel arrived atop a flavoursome broad bean puree that echoed every essence of summertime. Beside me, a hearty bowl of Celery soup with poached Burford Brown egg was being devoured by my obliging companion. Well seasoned and complimented by the perfectly poached egg, the soup was also a hit as was the loaf of freshly baked bread on the table.
From one fish to another, I chose the Grilled Loch Duart salmon with Jersey Royals and Morecambe Bay Shrimps for my main. With such a simple dish, the onus is on the quality of ingredients to make is stand out and here it did. The large salmon fillet arrived in perfect form, with crisp skin, moist flakes and good flavour, and was surrounded by lightly buttered shrimps. The Jersey Royals took their place on the plate in crushed form â not quite whole, not quite mashed â and had great flavour.
However, the second main of Roast Goosnargh duck leg with bubble and squeak didnât score quite as highly in our books. The duck was tender and flavoursome, but the bubble and squeak didnât live up to its retro roots having not been fried, which effectively made it mashed potato. Finished with a rich jus, the whole dish also tasted a little over-salted and made it difficult to fully enjoy. However, our desserts of Claremont Farm gooseberry fool and Raspberry shortbread worked well as successfully simple dishes that delivered on taste.
With the kitchenâs focus and knowledge of locally sourced ingredients and good quality produce, it is clear to see why The River Restaurant has become one the cityâs most celebrated eateries. While the Market Menu didnât do much to showcase the skill and inspiration of the brigade, it was definitely good enough to tempt me to return for a bite of the A la Carte offerings that have earned this restaurant acclaim.
The River Bar and Restaurant, The Lowry Hotel, 50 Dearmans Place, Chapel Wharf, Manchester, M3 5LH
T: 0161 827 4000
W: www.thelowryhotel.com