Neil Sowerby
Eight wines, eight dishes. Would they match? Neil Sowerby enjoys working that one out at Evuna when Campo Viejo comes to town...
Strange bedfellows Evuna and Campo Viejo. The first is Manchesterâs premier Spanish wine specialists, an operation for which the term boutique could have been invented. A retail wine from many regions sourced by the intrepid Jane Dowler is combined with an elegant yet cosy restaurant serving authentic if not wildly ambitious Spanish cuisine.
The second is a major Rioja-based producer, whose distinctive labels can be spotted on most supermarket shelves rather than quality restaurant wine lists. Thatâs not to knock them. Their presence has often been a saviour at the affordable end. Itâs just... would I want to work my way through their range? Well now itâs happened because of a slightly subversive initiative by Campo Viejo, called Viva el Vino.
The basic concept is you the customer choose the wines and the kitchen will match them with appropriate dishes. With Evuna being asked and volunteering to be the Manchester âguinea pigâ, the first outside London, it was the perfect chance to see how the restaurant is doing these days and if Campo Viejo could surprise me.
There was a choice of two formats: Menu Uno offering four 60ml samples of different red wines plus appropriate tapas servings, for £22.50 per person. We went for Menu Dos where eight 35ml samples of wine were paired again with matching food, at £32.50 a head.
A very positive lunchtime experience was obviously fuelled by the line-up of eight wines (of consistent quality, a couple quite stunning). Not every dish suited every wine and vice versa, but the way the food was serve it was possible to create your own matches. To make you think about this is all part of the mission (as well as to publicise Campo Viejoâs wider range). The experiment is only on until May 7 when Campo Viejo wonât again be available at Evuna due to its other commercial ties.
If you can make it before the deadline, itâs worth it especially to taste the spicy cherryish Campo Viejo Reserva 2004 and the 100 per cent Tempranillo Dominio de Campo Vieja Reserva from the same vintage; soft, long and elegant despite its abundance of red fruit. The pair are available on each menu, the Dominio easily accommodating spicy meatballs, with the Reserva providing the entertainment in the face of some bland paprika chicken.But the chilli kick in some fillet steak was all too much for the Gran Reserva 2002, which was a touch woody and soupy.
The other red, a fruity but simple Viejo Crianza 2006 simply didnât match some gorgeous Serrano ham, which was complemented far better by the Rose which effortlessly accompanied garlic prawns. Ham and prawns are reliably terrific at Evuna. There was garlic and chilli present too in the seabass second course, but discreetly. The matching Campo Viejo Viura 2008 was discreet, to the point of being neutral.
Not so the opening wine, a zingy, fresh Gran Campo Viejo Cava Brut Reserva I could have stayed with long after we had finished our cheese course (at the beginning of the meal) â mellow Manchego with membrillo quince paste and syrup. Another cava, a pink one bookended the meal, partnering a crumbly, yummy cheesecake to complete a delightful lunch.
Iâm sure, long after the Viva el Vino roadshow moves on, if you turn up at Evuna theyâll pick you a few of their own distinctive wines and match food with them for you. Viva Evuna, we say!
Evuna
277 Deansgate
Manchester
M3 4EW
T: 0161 819 2752
W: www.evuna.com
Campo Viejo wines are widely available (for full details of the range visit www.campoviejowines.co.uk.