9 July 2013

TWO parts of Tim Bacon’s Triple Spinningfield Whammy are up and running, writes Neil Sowerby. Artisan, described by a fellow critic as a battle cruiser of a restaurant/bar, and Grand Pacific, which is less grand but also less overpowering,  We now await the coming of Aiden Byrne and his fine dining destination in Manchester House. ETA September.

When I say “less grand” about Grand Pacific I don’t mean that disparagingly. I like its tucked away feel, sheltering in  the coat-tails of Armani. It looks handsome in a colonial mansion library kind of way. Though not every library boasts a bar designed to look like a Pacific Rim beach hideaway. Nice little oasis-like garden, too

Its Bacon-created predecessor on this site, the ll-fated Peppermint Park was a rare Living Ventures blip, but I’ve every confidence this one is going to succeed – I hope not just as an overspill to big brother Australasia, to which it is connected via a discreet staircase.

It is obviously connected, too, to the Australasia kitchen. Its light bites menu leans heavily (or should that be lightly) on sushi, while the cocktails are pretty much the same.

The presence the other night of David Beckham and the other homegrown United stars of his generation certainly scattered stardust over Artisan. But, celebs note, for a place boasting 280 covers it is easy to find a discreet corner.

Even if you might injure yourself on the assorted bric a brac and objets d’art Living Ventures have piled into the space, obscuring some of the handsome views.

You can easily see what’s happening in the kitchen, where exec chef Dylan Thomas’s team seem to be in perpetual motion in this all-day operation.

“Fire is at the literal heart of the restaurant, with two wood ovens burning throughout the day and night,” read the spiel. Hence a tranche of New World-style pizzas. Good bases from those eternal flames but I really am averse to lamb doner kebab or Thai red curry toppings. If you have to, go for beetroot and horseradish with creamed goat cheese (£10).

We shared it and an 8oz fillet steak (£24.95), slightly less rare than I would have liked, but meat and grills look the best option in a menu that is far too large and transglobal for my comfort.

I know it’s all that Big Aussie Deli With Pecs vibe that’s the aim, but it is too all things to all Poms for me. It’s as if a great New York institution like Dean and Deluca had gone on to steroids.

There are treats for possums, though – if you order small and lots. Lovely artichoke petals with garlic and herb vinegar dressing (£4.50) uses up what’s left after the heart is sliced  out, while Wood Roasted Sardines come to the table pinioned against a hunk of bark (£5.95) and are a spot-on fishy chew.

The wine list is fine, if unexciting, while the beer list is just odd. Just the eight in bottles, so it’s odd to find among their number the strong, sourish red ale-style Duchesse de Bourgogne (£5.50) from Flanders. I’d go for Kipling from the estimable Thornbridge Brewery at £5.75 for a half litre. It’s golden blonde, with a tropical fruit nose and a soft grapefruit-laden bitter finish. Equal to big brother Jaipur in my opinion. Most folk around us were necking cocktails. And my hopes are highest for Aiden Byrne’s arrival at summer’s end.

Artisan, 22-28 Bridge Street, Manchester. 0161 832 4181 www.artisan.uk.com