Authentic Greek cooking at Papa Gs

26 March 2012

Olivia Malone You will find independent, family-run restaurant Papa Gs Grill and Bar in the heart of the Printworks entertainment complex. This brightly-coloured eatery sits opposite the Odeon, so I can only blame the post 3D glasses adjustment period for not having noticed it before.

But the playful lighting, pink booths and lime green ceiling are not difficult to miss. And putting eye-catching decor to one side for a moment, the flavoursome menu is another draw. Built upon the Ancient Greek ethos that food made with love enhances the flavour, Papa Gs is a gem among the chain restaurants and bars.

Myself and various other members of the Food and Drink Festival team tucked into a trio of handmade dips and flatbread (£5.95) to start. My favourite dip was the unusual but delicious Feta Chilli variety, invented in the Papa G kitchen, we were told by manager, Vas Theophanous. He also recommended the meze starter for two (£13.95). He didn’t have to twist many arms when he explained what it involved; calamari, spicy sausages, dolmathes (stuffed vine leaves), aranchini (mushrooms risotto balls coated in parmesan), sesame seeded halloumi cheese, chicken wings, Marys Spare ribs (a secret recipe of the mother of the owner) and yet more dips.

An easy choice for a hungry four (although it was advertised for two, so maybe we are not as greedy as initially thought) served on a rustic wooden board.

For the main event we chose to bypass the pizza and pasta options, opting instead the more authentic, Greek options. The Village Salad (£10.45) with grilled salmon was bursting with olives, feta and fresh mint and parsley and it was certainly village in the sense that it was large enough to feed a small hamlet.

Portion sizes did not disappoint any members of the table – both Souvlaki (kebab) choices, one chicken the other tiger prawn, were served with proper, fat chips. Stacked, brick wall style, they supported the skewered meat and fish to create a proper spectacle, which didn’t disappoint in the flavour stakes either.

I tricked myself into believing I was too stuffed for dessert, knowing full well I would enjoy a few cheeky spoonfuls of the beautifully presented Baklava with vanilla ice cream (£4.65) whilst others polished off Crepes with Chocolate Sauce (£4. 65). We left Papa Gs as stuffed as vines leaves and chuffed to have found an authentic Mediterranean high point along the faux cobbled streets of The Printworks.

The background of Papa Gs is worth a mention too. Run by the Gabrilatsous family (lending the venue the G of the title), there is a photo gallery of family portraits to admire. These offer an insight into the catering past of the city as the family moved to Manchester in the 1930s and have been in the restaurant business ever since. Ideal for family dining, parties and hearty lunches and suppers, not to mention pre or post cinema dining, Papa Gs serves some of the best Greek food the city has to offer.

The Printworks, 27 Withy Grove, Manchester M4 2BS. Tel: 0161 834 8668, www.papags.co.uk

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