Jamie Faulkner Bar manager, Dan Morris, is serious about bourbon. And he is seriously knowledgeable too.
In half an hour he tells me more than I ever knew about bourbon and after several choice samples I was beginning to think I would forget it almost as quickly.
We meet up on the second floor of the long-established Northern Quarter outlet. As Dan points out, it is not exclusively a bourbon bar - the usual gamut of spirits and beers being well represented here too - but there is a bigger bourbon selection than you will find anywhere in Manchester and an impressive array of infused bourbons crafted in-house by Dan and his team.
As we take our seats I spy a miniature barrel with the dated 12th December 2011 and labeled Barrel-aged Manhattan. It is a classic combination of bourbon, sweet and dry vermouth, and bitters which has been maturing for the better part of five months.
Usually the ingredients are combined just before serving then lengthened over ice. Ageing them together in a cask makes for an unusual but surprising version of the cocktail, very mellow with a long finish. It is garnished with a home-made maraschino cherry that is so good I try convincing Dan to bottle and sell them.
Before I get ahead of myself, though, I want to find out a little more about bourbon and the misconceptions surrounding it.
Rules
A spirit must meet some strict criteria to be classed as bourbon â being made from at least 51 per cent corn and aged in new charred oak barrels are the ones we need to worry about, as these are responsible for its distinctive flavour. Bourbons generally have more pronounced vanilla notes than Scotch whiskies, a subtle sweetness from the corn and a smoky, peppery finish imparted by the charred oak.
Contrary to my understanding, Bourbon can be produced anywhere in the United States, not just in Kentucky, although the association with the American south is deeply rooted. I was also equally misinformed when it comes to Jack Daniels. As a barman, I used to take great pleasure in correcting people who classed JD as bourbon. It turns out that JD is technically bourbon but the manufacturers choose to market it as a Tennessee sour mash in order to distinguish it from straight Kentucky bourbons.
Dan says: "You hear people come in and slag off Buffalo Trace and then order a George T Stagg without realising they are both made by the same guys.â He is highlighting the fact that most people are unaware that there are very few bourbon distilleries and that the whole process is rather âinsular and nepotisticâ.
Flavour and strength
You can see how few producers there are by taking a look at the menu which is divided into bourbons by distillery. But within each distillery, you can find a whole range of spirits suited to all tastes and wallets.
So now that that we have whet our palate and know a little more about what we are drinking, let us get on to the hard stuff. Bear in mind, most spirits, bourbon included, are diluted to around 40 per cent.
The first bourbon we try, the George T Stagg, weighs in at a hefty 70.7 per cent (£10). On first try the alcohol masks most of the flavour. Dan advises adding a few drops of water to open it up and heâs right â chocolate, cherry, caramel, dried fruits, and a whole lot of spice are the reward. This is what 15 years inside an oak barrel will do. No wonder itâs won so many awards.
Our next choice is the Willett Pot Still (£10), which comes in an uncharacteristically ostentatious bottle for a bourbon. This is an unusual, restrained example of the spirit â it has a light pepperiness, aromas of popcorn and maple with an oaky dryness on the finish. This is a whiskey for those whoâve tried a few of the entry-level bourbons and are in for a challenge.
The last handpicked bourbon gem is the Elmer T. Lee (£4), named after the master distiller at Buffalo Trace. This is truly a gateway bourbon if such a thing exists - warming but not aggressive with strong notes of toffee and apricot. One of the best in terms of bang for your buck and great to initiate the bourbon virgin.
If sipping neat bourbon isnât your thing, cocktails are another option. At Trof, the classics have been elevated to another level by the homemade infusion. The Mint Julep (£6.50) is made with mint-infused bourbon and the Flip (£6.50) is augmented with hickory-smoked bourbon and hickory-smoked Benedictine. It is made inhouse and a moreish liqueur. Also, a bottle of Samuel Adams beer is £2 when you chase it with any of the bourbons on offer.
I love bourbon. It is one of the few things we can thank America for. If you too want to sample the most unique collection of Bourbons you are likely to see this side of the Atlantic, then head on down to the Bourbon bar at Trof where I will be propping up the bar.
Trof Northern Quarter, 6 Thomas Street. Tel: 0161 833 3197