Having lived in Levenshulme for three years I was getting embarrassed of saying Iâd not been to That Café, even though itâs about 300 yards from my home. So on a Saturday evening with no plans, the husband and I decided to treat ourselves. Iâd also noticed on their website that for every main meal you buy in August that you get a free glass of organic wine, so I was well and truly sold.
That Café is a small unassuming place sitting on the A6 with a big reputation for good food. However, they donât market it hugely so a lot of people havenât heard of the place. Surprisingly (and luckily), I could get a table for that night, when Iâve had restaurants in the city centre laughing when Iâve tried to book a table on a Saturday for that night.
I recently heard that the owners have a smallholding out near Burnley and seeing as Manchester Food and Drink Festivalâs theme this year is sustainability and main sponsor is Love Food Hate Waste I thought it would be really interesting to find out more about what they do.
Owners Allan McMinn and Sharon Akerboom with their chef Alison Eason started off with a plot at nearby Tonbridge Allotments, taking their vegetable waste down in a wheelie bin. They loved it so much that five years ago they moved to a smallholding over near Burnley and now have nine acres of woodland, an allotment garden and livestock including pigs, Hebridean sheep, geese and chickens.
They are now self-sufficient at home, and use as much of their own produce in the restaurant as possible. In fact, the restaurant is no longer open on Sundays because the Good Life-loving trio have been so successful going round farmerâs markets with their produce. They also sell their produce at the restaurant with some tasty looking chutneys and liqueurs lined up on the bar.
Set in two terrace houses knocked together, the restaurant has one half with a small lounge area and bar, which has a beautiful fire place and an original wallpaper which has come back round into fashion. The other half has lovely stripped floorboards and is quite modern, with smart wooden tables and felt really relaxed.
Allan was working front of house all evening and the service was pretty perfect: friendly, unobtrusive and really helpful. Our two glasses of red organic Spanish Azar wine went down quickly over a bowl of perfectly marinated olives, with a rich vinegar kick.
The wine list has a great description underneath for wine novices like myself. An Argentinean Santa Julia Organica Torrontes from Mendoza (2008) was chosen from the specials list and the fresh flavour brought forth a strong aroma of nectarine, and was fresh and fruity without being sweet.
Overall the meal portions were huge. A similar restaurant in the city centre could serve portions half the size and get away with it. The salad niçoise, with optional anchovies was tasty, but could have done with a stronger vinegar dressing to bind it all together. Next to it, the Warm salad of smoked duck, black pudding and white pudding with bacon (£6.95) had a lot of different meaty flavours tied together with raspberry vinegar dressed salad leaves.
Main courses were just as hearty and the lamb chump (£16.25) was a beauty, cooked pink and served with Moroccan lamb rissoles and a spicy tomato, aubergine, chick pea and preserved lemon sauce (£16.25). The Arabic spices were rich and musky, setting off the juicy lamb flavours with just a hint of the preserved lemon over the top.
The Free range chicken breast (£16.25) was another meat-eaterâs dream; thick, juicy and still on the bone. Bosom buddies in this dish were a little ball of mozzarella tucked in the end of the breast, blush tomato stuffing and the whole creation was wrapped in pancetta. Buttered mixed kales, which I suspect might have been from their smallholding, provided a different fresh crunchy texture, and came with a roast red pepper puree.
All the desserts looked quite amazing - particularly the Butter brazil nut and toffee parfait, an ice cream terrine served with a caramel sauce (£4.95) - but there was just no way we could eat anymore.
After a really memorable evening - I can still taste the flavours in the wine as I type - I really want That Café to shout very loudly about what theyâre doing. But then again if they did I might not be able to get a table on a whim.
That Café: 1031 Stockport Road, Levenshulme, Manchester M19 2TB.
T: 0161 432 4672
W: www.thatcafe.co.uk