POLPO means both octopus (in Italian) and the Soho restaurant of that name whose tentacles have stretched far, writes Neil Sowerby. Russell Normans self-styled bacaro (gondoliers snack-stop), put cicchhetti (what they snack on there) on the map and suddenly all canals lead to Venice as Brits embrace that citys tapas-like dishes.
Marcello DiStefano of the San Carlo dynasty mined this rich seam for Manchester first, creating a restaurant even called Cicchetti whose food roams far beyond the Jewel of Adriatic and no one would mistake it for a typically basic bacaro.
The equally glamorous Rosso at the top of Spring Gardens was the former stamping ground of Adam Karim, another convert to cicchetti at his new place, Cibo, in Didsbury Village. He and his chef, Martin Cordwell (ex-Stock), roamed Venice, tasting dishes and sourcing ingredients before launching Cibo which means food in Italian. Simple, catchy. I intend to shortly open an eaterie called Rompidigiuno (thats a Venetian appetiser that breaks your fast). Shorten it to Rompi. Well, maybe not.
Testing out the results at Cibos summer menu launch was a sheer joy. I started with, what else, polpo, an octopus salad (subtly) dressed with blood orange and chilli (£8). It came with an odd black polenta. Crumbly and coloured with squid ink, it disconcertingly came on like a fishy black pudding.
A near-transparent swordfish carpaccio was more reassuring with lots of freshness from king prawn shavings, cucumber and dill, though a dish of courgette flowers stuffed with ricotta were limp and underpowered (each £7).
A crisp, herby Vermentino white from Sardinia, (26.50), off a very attractive wine list, was proving a lovely accompaniment and met its perfect match in tuna chargrilled with capers, parsley and lemon Med on a plate for £8.
Still the two dishes that satisfied most were the kind of year-round comfort dishes I like, here served in the size of portions appropriate for summer a porcini risotto with black truffle shavings (£9) and a delightfully light take on pasta carbonara. With these we drank an equally light Piemontese red with welcome acidity and a stash of vibrant redcurrant and plum fruit a Dolcetto dAlba from Prunotto (£27.50 a bottle).
Chef Cordwell has a deft touch with pasta. Joining us for asperol and limoncello, he told of plans for bespoke ravioli and the like, filling them with liquorice and blackurrant as well as attempting more savoury forays.
On a hot summer night we dined inside in a dark space that has still not quite shaken off the look of its previous manifestation as a La Tasca. The upstairs terrace bar was rammed. Cibo has great potential a destination bar. I just hope the place calling itself Food sticks by its purist guns and fulfils its potential in this department. It has made a fine start.
Cibo, 10-12 Warburton St Manchester, Greater Manchester M20 6WA
0161 448 2222, http://ciborestaurants.com