BARFLY and bowling alley is a heady mix, writes Neil Sowerby. Give me a lane to aim down and Im invariably as wobbly as a skimmed skittle; perched on a bar stool as All Star Lanes bar manager Alex McNeil lines up an array of high-octane cocktails I fear my concentration will slip after the initial sips.
Fortunately my companion, Sareda, is made of sterner stuff and brings mixological nous to the party. So below are some coherent notes!
All Star Lanes has only been open in the Great Northern a few months but all aspects of the bowling/ alley restaurant operation have been honed at its high-profile London sites and that includes the cocktails, which follow the Fifties Chic formula.
Nows a good chance to try them. All Star Lanes is offering a two for one cocktail hour 4-7pm every Monday-Friday until the end of July 2013 (on selected drinks).
What I immediately liked about the bar was the independence afforded to Alex in stock selection. Hence it boasts he largest selection of American Bourbons in the UK! Proud Scotsman and Scotch lover though he is, hes equally enthusiastic about American and Japanese rivals. If you are feeling flush (and happy to get flushed) order his recommended Hannisville Rye 1863 just £100 a dram.
But we were there at the classic chrome square bar, stacked high with spirits and flavourings for the cocktails.
We left it to Alex, formerly at Grill on New York Street and a big asset to All Star, to call the shots. Heres what we thought:
I Love NY (£6.50) is the bars best seller from the Creations Menu, whose motto is Originals Never Replicas. Its an uncomplicated sunny mix of Finlandia Vodka, Aperol (much touted taste of this summer in Manchester), passionfruit and apple juice. Its probably good for you, too.
Another Creation, Roller Girl (£6.50) uses Finlandia to a different purpose, one not entirely to my liking. The sharpness of pomegranate and lemon juice is subverted into sickly (for me) sweetness by the addition of bubble gum syrup. Its a hen party tipple, whispered Sareda.
She was much more up for the Aloha Jar (£6.50), a moreish concoction including 42below passion fruit, orgeat syrup, lime and pineapple juice served disconcertingly in a small jar, topped with a small umbrella.
If Aloha Jar yelled I am tropical, our final cocktail offered a stern bourbon-fuelled rejoinder. For £8.50 the classic Boulevardier combines Woodford Reserve, Campari and sweet vermouth. Its a potent cousin of the Negroni and definitely one for just before bedtime.
The Great Northern, 235 Deansgate, Manchester M3 4EN, 0161 871 3600