Lisa Higginson
Autumn has arrived in all its golden-leaved glory and of the seasons, it is my favourite by far. The air, now crisp, is subtly scented with chimney smoke, trees are showcasing a cacophony of colour with branches ablaze of rusty red and burnt orange coverings and a whole new collection of seasonal produce is ready to be celebrated. One of my favourite autumnal offerings is game; whether it be birds or beasts, this is one of the greatest of Great British meats and now is the time to eat it.
With that in mind, I ventured into the fringes of rural Lancashire for a celebration of the glorious game at one of the countyâs most quintessential eateries, The Longridge. As the flagship restaurant of top Lancashire chef Paul Heathcote, it has long been firmly fixed on the food map of Britain, winning a host of awards over the years. At the helm of this fine dining hotspot is Kath and Chris Bell, who both worked at the restaurant for a number of years prior to leaving to run their own business, later returning to take over the management.
I was invited to experience one of the famous cookery classes that have been running at The Longridge for more than 19 years. At present, there are more than 20 dates throughout the year when guests can indulge in an intimate cookery demonstration presented by head chef Chris. Arriving for the game-themed class, I was joined by a small group of 12 people who were all eager to be inspired, and inside the restaurantâs cosy bar we enjoyed coffee and homemade biscuits before being led up to the specially adapted private dining room where the classes take place.
A modest kitchen fitted with all the mod cons occupies one end of the room, while a large wooden table with place settings fills out the rest. With all the spectators in place, recipe booklets in hand, Chris began with an introduction about game and talked about the dishes he was going to create; Mallard with spiced apples and braised beetroot, Roast pheasant with lentils and chestnut butter and Roast loin of venison with celeriac puree, wild mushrooms and Madeira. Starting each dish from scratch, Chris demonstrated how to bone and prep the game birds and talked about the qualities of each of the seasonal meats, which were supplied by local producer Reg Johnson, whose farm is located just a few miles away in Goosnargh.
Chris carefully deconstructed the components of each dish to enable everyone to follow the processes, providing engaging commentary bursting with technical tips along the way. Among many other things, I learned never to salt lentils or pulses until after they are cooked, the thickening properties of arrowroot and how it only lasts 15 minutes, a trick of using icing sugar instead of caster to create a smoother caramel and a nifty tip of using egg whites as an undercoat when crumbing meat or fish. For me, those golden nuggets of advice alone were worth going for!
Closely watching the dishes being prepared with the passion so synonymous with an accomplished head chef such as Chris was fantastic and each came together beautifully. The wild mallard was robust in flavour and suited the sweet beetroot to a tee. But the star of the duck show was the spiced Bramley apples; so simply done with just icing sugar, olive oil and mixed spice, but stunning in flavour. The hearty dish of breast and leg of pheasant with puy lentils was equally delicious and an excellent example of how to get the best out of the whole bird. And a unanimous vote conceded the most triumphant dish of the day to be the roasted venison, which was served up for the Champagne Luncheon that followed the class in the restaurant.
Exposed brickwork, wood furnishings and crisp linen gives The Longridge a clean-lined countryside feel that marries with the modern British menu well. As we sat and shared our thoughts on the gastronomic show we had just witnessed, glasses of champagne arrived alongside canapé-stacked slates. The warm black pudding balls with apple puree were a comforting mouthful as were the tiny fishcakes and the miniature cheese and onion pies. A selection of homemade bread also impressed.
Home smoked organic salmon with potted Morecambe Bay shrimps shone as the starter; the soft fillet of fish sang with a gentle smokiness, while the plump crustaceans came in to deliver a sweet earthiness. Then came the Roast loin of venison with celeriac puree, wild mushrooms and Madeira sauce that we had seen cooked just moments before. Wrapped in a herb crumb, the hunk of magnificent meat was cooked delicately rare, its texture silky and its flavour seasonally deep. The light celeriac puree offered bite, fitting well with the accompanying savoy cabbage and mushrooms, while the tang of Maderia in the meaty jus brought the whole dish together without flaw.
The lunch came to a stunning close with a Raspberry soufflé, which had risen to notable heights from the rim of the teacup in which it was served. As light as air and dancing with the sweetness of fresh raspberries, it was nothing short of wonderful and signalled what was the end of a truly recommendable day. The class, while not exactly hands on, was interactive, informative and inspiring. Fortunate as we are to have such superb seasonal produce at our fingertips, it is only right that we do it justice by cooking it and with people like Chris now passing on knowledge and passion for such things, there is no excuse not to.
The cooker classes at The Longridge Restaurant cost £75 per person, which includes morning coffee, the demonstration and tastings and a three-course Champagne Luncheon. Places are limited to 15 guests and reservations must be made. For full details of forthcoming classes, including Christmas classes, visit www.heathcotes.co.uk
The Longridge Restaurant, 104-106 Higher Road, Longridge, Preston, PR3 3SY
T: 01772 784969