Neil Sowerby A NEW Italian in town? The heart so often sinks. Surely it is one cuisine we are over-blessed with â or should that be cursed? For every sensitive interpretation of the best Italian ingredients from the likes of Cicchetti or (English-run) Ramsons there are endless tired takes on pasta/pizza with or without the cliches of big pepper grinders and checked tablecloths.
One of the dreariest great survivors was Rustica, formerly known as Pizzeria Italia, latterly under the frozen-in-time custodianship of the Cabrelli family.
Now a new broom has swept through the corner site in the former office block primarily occupied by the Ramada Renaissance Hotel. New owner is Franco Sotgiu, whose Northern Quarter project Solita is a playful take on American diner cuisine.
Trattoria Italia on Deansgate
Italia (simple, classic) is anything but. New name but offering straight, traditional trattoria fodder, just done better, much better. The presence of an upmarket Inka Charcoal Oven (Franco supplies them as his day job) makes the grill specials (rose veal chop and the like) a must.
I went for a Pappardelle all Cinghiale (broad fettuccine with wild boar ragu, pictured) with a glass or two of a a sturdy Sardinian red, Cannonau (the Sotgiu family were the first on that island to bottle their own vino).
The pasta was al dente, the ragu fibrously toothsome and rich after 12 hours of braising. Gnocchi across the table were the antithesis of the usual stodgy pebbles, San Daniele ham as part of the antipasti was the best Iâd ever tasted away from Camisaâs legendary deli in Soho. Only a Cabrelli legacy disappointed.
48 hour proved dough
The ice cream was promisingly dense and creamy but my vanilla and mango scoops lacked intensity of flavour. Shame, the espresso was great. The pizzas, pals report, are âproperâ now, made with 48-hour risen dough.
The space, with its great people watching windows, has had lots of kitsch removed, but especially upstairs it could still double up as a Life on Mars set. Part of its charm, some might say.
Thereâs a heap of charm about the nearby Salviâs Mozzarella Bar, which I have written admiringly about in the past. Whether they can make the transition from the corner of Old Italy they have created in the Triangle to the Chinese demands of the Yang Sing this weekend (Fri Nov 30- Sun Dec 2) Iâm not quite sure.
The two family-run business are blending their food, wine and ethos for 72 hours in the Salvis Goes East pop up restaurant, fusing Italian ingredients with Cantonese culinary nous in a theatrical open-plan kitchen in the Yang Singâs main dining room.
Bookings and tickets are available at £40pp Friday- Saturday, 6pm-11pm. Then £35pp, and £20 for kids under 10 on the Sunday from midday until 7pm. Book on 07776425073.
Salvis, The Triangle, Exchange Square, Unit 22B, M4 3TR. Tel: 0756 337 5135. Italia, 40-42 Deansgate, M3 1RH. Tel: 0161 834 1541.