11 August 2009

Lisa Higginson

Ning could be likened to a flower blossoming against all odds beneath the ugly overgrowth of a forgotten garden. For after daring to open its doors on one of the drabbest streets in the Northern Quarter, this charming Malaysian eatery is now flourishing on Manchester’s restaurant scene.

Head chef and co-owner Norman Musa has risen from humble roots to become recognized for his undeniably authentic Asian cuisine. Raised in Malaysia, it is hard to believe when you tuck into Ning’s accomplished creations that Norman could barely fry an egg when he first came to the UK 15 years ago. But since discovering the art of Malay cooking from his mother, the self-taught chef has never looked back and has recently earned himself a nomination for Chef of the Year in the Manchester Food and Drink Festival Awards 2009.

Ning’s honest approach is reflected in its menu, which pays tribute to the traditional dishes of South East Asia that would be found on street food stalls or in the family home. Staff are friendly and knowledgeable and sitting amid the lavish wallpaper, candles and beautiful flower arrangements you do feel somewhere a bit unique.

Sipping an ice cold Thai Singah beer we cast our eye over the A la carte and new summer menus and struggled between the tempting choices. The Thai fish cakes with sweet chilli (£5.50) took my fancy for a starter. Cod fillet, prawns and coriander were blended to create four rounded patties that were packed with flavour and had a great meaty texture. Thankfully, these were distinctly different to the potato-laden excuses for Thai fishcakes that often worm their way onto menus. Across the table, a neat plate of Chicken satay (£6.25) was being devoured. This typically Asian dish was given a contemporary edge through its attractive presentation on a square sectioned plate and it also hit the mark for flavour; the chicken was tender while the satay sauce was deliciously nutty and buttery with a hint of spice.

From the summer menu - which features fresh tasting dishes such as Mango chicken salad (£5.50), Daging Goreng Basil (beef and sweet basil stir fry) (£9.50) and Sambal Petai Udang (prawns with a bitter bean stir fry) (£10.50) – I chose the recommended Ikan Goreng Masam Manis (crispy seabass fillet with sweet and sour chilli gravy) (£12.95). This dish was an absolute triumph. Fillets of beautifully soft seabass hid beneath a delicate coating of seasoned flour that had crisped up to perfection in the process of cooking. They were joined by a thick ‘gravy’ of fresh tomatoes, spring onions, coriander and a hint of chilli that celebrated the sweetness of the fish exquisitely. Together with a bowl of expertly cooked Malay-style coconut rice (£2.30) this was one of the best seafood dishes I had eaten in some time.

The classic dish of Chicken Rendang (£9.25) was my companion’s rather good choice. The hearty bowl beheld pieces of incredibly tender chicken that had been simmered lovingly with coconut milk, lemongrass, galangal and chilli. This warming dish exemplified the heart of Malaysian cuisine. Although satisfyingly full after our meal, we decided to peruse the dessert menu out of sheer curiosity before finding ourselves being gently coaxed into trying a traditional Malay pudding.

Seri Kaya (£4.00) was a layered sweet cake of sticky rice with pandan and coconut milk set custard, which we were told we would "love or hate". I didn’t hate it, but I didn’t really love it either. The sticky rice was subtly sweet as was the set custard, which appeared in a spectacular shade of green (coloured by the pandan leaves) that certainly made it aesthetically appertising! The accompanying real dairy ice cream was delicious, as were the Homemade chocolate and cashew nut brownies (£4.50) that were also recommended to us by Ning co-owner Andy Spracklen who introduced them to the menu.

As well as bringing a taste of Malaysia to Manchester, Ning has breathed life into an ailing part of town and this brilliant restaurant – which also boasts a popular cookery school and outside catering business - is sure to keep blossoming.

Ning, The Burton Building, 92-94 Oldham Street, Northern Quarter, Manchester, M4 1LJ
T: 0161 211 3575
W: www.ningcatering.com