Lisa Higginson
The culinary map of northern England is something to be marveled at and the latest scattering of Michelin stars is proof in itself. Yorkshire now stands proudly in second place only behind London as the county with the most starred restaurants â an impressive six - while Cumbria stands in a well earned fourth place with four stars. Unfortunately, Manchester missed the Michelin boat again (I wonât dwell on that), but my point is that here in the heart of the north you are never too far away from an exquisite restaurant.
Take a hop, skip, jump and an hourâs drive up the M6 to Hipping Hall and you will see exactly what I mean. Just a few miles out of what is one of the most luxurious Lancastrian villages, Kirkby Lonsdale, this charming 17th Century house turned stylish restaurant with rooms is one of the areaâs best kept secrets. It is perhaps so because of the tall wall of teetering trees that hides it from the wondering eyes of drivers whizzing past on the A65. For those in the know, however, Hipping Hall is a fine dining destination that rivals many of its restaurant peers with plates of inspiring food.
As youâd expect from an historic abode, the hall is full of charm and character that has been lovingly exposed through stylish furnishings. Flag floors, open fires and antique furniture are a natural theme here and I defy anyone not to be impressed by the dining room, which comes complete with a minstrelâs gallery, a huge feature fireplace and hefty wooden flooring.
After warming up with an aperitif and canapés (olives, roasted nuts, smoked salmon, chorizo and quail eggs) in the lounge, my good friend and I took our seat at a linen-laid table in the dining room beside a glowing log fire. We opted for the nine-course gourmand menu with the matching wine package (£85pp), although an appertising a la carte menu is also available. Being among a multitude of amazing producers, it is only polite that Hipping Hall champions them, and the modern British menus reflects both local and seasonal influences expertly.
A velvety veloute of Jerusalem artichoke began proceedings with a serving of delicious homemade bread, before we devoured delicately cooked hand-dived scallops accompanied by a rich roast cauliflower puree. The sweet shellfish was spot on tender and danced on the earthiness of the roasted cauliflower. This was served with a stunning glass of Fairhall Downs, Marlborough, New Zealand, Sauvignon Blanc 2006; the punchy gooseberry tones and crisp finish working well with the dish.
The following course, and the star of the show for me, was a melt-in-the-mouth chunk of belly pork paired perfectly with pieces of succulent langoustine. The salty edge of the slow-cooked meat acted as an underrated platform for the robust langoustine flesh and brought forth the proof that there is space on the same fork for species of the land and sea. The dishâs sweetness was beautifully enhanced by the delicate flushes of summer berries that came from the Andre Dezat Et Fils, Sancerre Rouge, Loire, France, 2004.
A roasted fillet of halibut arrived next, flawlessly cooked and served on a creamy seafood chowder that bursted with delicate fresh flavours. While it can sometimes be an overwhelmingly rich dish, this chowder was sublimely light and gave the halibut a wonderful lift, as did the fruitful Cousino-Macul, Antiguas Reserva Chardonnay, Chile, 2006, which was served alongside it.
An offering of beautifully tender, deep rouge slices of Holker Hall venison were then delivered alongside earthy vegetables and an intense jus that echoed the meatâs gamey tones. There was something about eating this dish beside a log fire that made it all the more tasty - that and the rich damson nuances of the accompanying Wirra Wirra McLaren Vale Shiraz/Cabernet, Australia, 2006.
Sweet tooth satisfaction came with a pre-dessert of roasted plums with a delicious rice pudding ice cream, thankfully minus the skin. This preceded a tasty modern twist on a rhubarb and custard dessert that, while pleasant, seemed a little tame following the culinary adventures we had embarked on beforehand. However, it was well matched again with the Goldtropfchen, Riesling Spatlese, Mosel, 2004.
There was just about enough room left for the selection of international fine cheeses, which arrived with a sticky chutney, homemade crackers and grapes. The pull of a comfortable chair soon became too much to resist after devouring the cheese, so we sloped off into the cosy lounge for the final course of coffee and home-made petit fours (chocolates and marshmallow).
It seems a shame to seek out this hidden gem and not indulge in all it has to offer, so I would whole-heartedly recommend staying overnight in one of the tasteful bedrooms, having now twice experienced their cosseted charm. If the extraordinarily comfortable bedding or sunken baths donât entice you, then at least stay for the sake of breakfast; the smoked salmon and scrambled eggs come highly recommended.
Hipping Hall is a shining example of why our place on the countryâs culinary map is firmly affixed â and it doesnât need a star to prove it.
Hipping Hall
Cowan Bridge, Kirkby Lonsdale, Lancashire, LA6 2JJ
T: 015242 71 187
www.hippinghall.com