23 March 2010

Lauren Coulman

“How lovelyâ€?, exclaimed my dad when I told him I was writing this feature. “I love afternoon teaâ€?, was offered by my friend Hannah. A whole range of positive proclamations came forth when I explained I was going to hunt down the best places in Greater Manchester to enjoy the delightful and indulgent experience that is afternoon tea. After all, it’s pretty hard to be negative about afternoon tea, an occasion which offers up a bounty of tea, cakes and scones. All English favourites, and an exquisite way to indulge at a time of day often reserved for work or lazy afternoons. How very lovely indeed.

We need a bit of lovely. The last few years have been challenging for the average Tom, Dick or Harry. We are all fully versed in interest rates and economic decline, and have consequently worried about keeping our jobs or even worse, getting a job, and simultaneously keeping our house, or for the younger generation ever getting a house. Politicians scrap openly in public, horrific news is broadcast via a multitude of media every day, and to top it all off, we have to save the world from melting into a big ball of pulp. Tough times, so more than ever we need a bit of fluff and frippery.

It’s not for nothing that 2009 saw sales of chocolate soar as people looked for small ways to indulge at home, something we all did a lot more of, finding inexpensive ways to enjoy ourselves. Watching films and playing board games have become more popular pastimes, and being house bound has driven us back into the kitchen, dusting off recipe books and throwing more dinner parties because we can afford to eat out less. When we do, we have had to hunt down eateries offering greater value, made use of the abundance of ‘two for one’ deals or exercised a little restraint and not ordered that much desired dessert.

All this frugality and restraint has brought the need for a little bit of something special into sharp focus, and there is nothing better for it than a spot of afternoon tea. A great British tradition, the ritual and food involved in afternoon tea is comforting, making even the most downhearted feel content. It’s also a fantastic way to get some quality time in with your friends and family without being confined to your couch. Cheaper than a three course meal at a restaurant, an array of delicate sandwiches, delectable cakes and the ever alluring scone is the perfect way to indulge without breaking the bank. All that is left to do is decide how you like to take your afternoon tea.

Treading the streets of Manchester, I was delighted to find there is an afternoon tea experience for everyone. From full on silver service to the more pared down experience of picking your cake from a glass cabinet, it can all be served up in and around the city.

First stop was Parched Tea Bar, tucked away in the Arndale Food Market amongst the Greek food stalls and milkshake bars. With shared tables for all the surrounding food outlets, there’s a real buzz around Parched, where the friendly owner serves a vast array of speciality teas along with some fantastic toasties.

Parched also offer up an ‘Indulgent Cream Tea’ consisting of a pot of tea accompanied by a scone with butter, clotted cream and jam for just £3.50. With such great value and a great view on to nearby High Street, you can understand why this little stop off was nominated for ‘Best Coffee Bar and Casual Dining’ at the 2009 Manchester Food and Drink Festival Awards.

Just around the corner on Thomas Street is Teacup, a fantastically quirky little establishment. Where Parched is perfect for all ages and a quick stop off, Teacup invites you to spend a little more time, and true to the spirit of its Northern Quarter location, attracts a slightly younger audience. The food here is great, with all kinds of eggs available throughout the day, bagels and delicious sandwiches all between £3.00 and £4.00. Though not an afternoon tea in the traditional sense, with cupcakes, chocolate torte, bakewell tart and apple strudels all priced no higher than £3.20, you are plenty able to satiate your sweet tooth. A pot of tea for one or two can be ordered, with a fantastic array of teas on offer including Teacup’s own blend of owner (and Manchester DJ) Mr Scruff’s ‘Make us a Brew’ tea.

Having catered for the casual tea drinker and the more funky and bohemian brew, I headed out of the city to Dunham Massey, near Altrincham, where you can find Red House Farm. In a beautiful rural setting, you will discover a fantastic little tea shop with an adjoining farm shop offering up all kinds of goodies. A rustic little affair with odes to tea on the walls, here I enjoyed a delicious cheddar cheese and real ale chutney sandwich for just £3.95, followed up with a cream tea comprising a pot of organic Clipper tea for two, a homemade fruit scone, clotted cream and a delicious strawberry jam that melted over the scone. At just £3.50 for the pleasure, I had found another great bargain, and with fun activities around the farm found it the perfect place to bring a young family.

Saying goodbye to the wandering geese, I went off in search of my next indulgent experience, this time over in Whitefield. Slattery’s is a Manchester institution, and with its legendary chocolate experiences, I was interested to see how this would work its way in to an afternoon tea. Sadly I found that it doesn’t, unless you order the luxury version for £18.95, which as well as your standard fare gets you chocolate dipped strawberries and a glass of champagne. I went with the ‘Lancashire’ version for £12.95, plumping for roast ham sandwiches to precede the billed fruit cake and an almond slice, followed further by a sultana scone with the usual trappings. Though the experience was satisfying, having to pick just one sandwich filling felt a little mean considering the price, and the absence of chocolate or anything obviously ‘Lancashire’ was a little disappointing.

Heading back in to town, I was keen to revel in the full afternoon tea experience; one steeped in delightful confections, an abundance of cream, dainty little sandwiches and pots of freshly brewed tea, all prettily packaged without me having to pick from a menu. When looking for the best afternoon tea in a city, look no further than your top end hotels.

The Lowry Hotel offers afternoon tea in the prestigious River Bar and Restaurant, where the delicate hues of the restaurant invite to take part in a very formal ritual. For £19.95 per person, you are provided with a selection of finger sandwiches, freshly baked scones with Devonshire clotted cream and preserve and a selection of pastries, all served on a silver tea stand. Champagne afternoon tea is available for £29.95, and a children’s version is on offer for only £6.50 per child, offering finger sandwiches, gingerbread men, cookies and milk, allowing you to introduce them early to a career in afternoon tea.

From one ‘new money’ establishment to another, a similar experience can be had at the Radisson Edwardian in Opus One Bar and Restaurant, where the opulent surroundings provide a greater sense of occasion but at a slightly cheaper price. A standard afternoon tea comes at £14.95 per person, with the addition of champagne costing you £23.95. A wide selection of teas to infuse in your pot, more interesting sandwiches and wraps, plus a delectable list of cakes including choux swans, white chocolate fudge cake and orange and crème tart - plus the slightly more unusual fruit, apple and walnut scone - provides a more fun foodie experience than the Lowry, and feels a little like Manhattan with all its glamour.

Saving the best ‘til almost last, my hands down favourite experience was my ‘tea for two’ experience at The Midland Hotel. Dining at this legendary Manchester venue brings a certain amount of prestige and my very excited friend Hannah and I spent several indulgent hours eating and enjoying the renowned service while watching the residents of the hotel go about their lives. The food was excellent, enjoying finger sandwiches of salmon on pumpkin bread and a delectable spinach wrap filled with cream cheese and asparagus, followed by the freshly made and still warm scones with clotted cream, fresh butter and the choice of strawberry preserve or zingy fruit compote. Our tea cups came with luggage tags bearing stories of the hotels glorious past, a gorgeous little touch, which we thoroughly made use of before moving on to a glass of champagne to wash down the cakes, including an angelic meringue and fruit mousse confection, a rich and crunchy carrot cake filled with walnuts and a delicious flapjack that tasted like toffee.

For £21.95 throughout the week and £22.95 on a Saturday, such an experience is well worth the money if you want an extra special treat. But if you are looking for the same sense of occasion and grandeur at a fraction of the cost, then head to the Sculpture Hall at Manchester Town Hall. For £8.95, you get less of the fuss but all of the splendour, with afternoon tea served in the historic surroundings of this landmark building. Serving up the traditional sandwiches of egg mayonnaise and roast ham and delicious cakes, including a mouth watering bakewell tart and some excellent fruit scones, the food on offer is good, and all served on a tiered silver tea stand. Sat underneath the ceiling of bath stone and by the majestic stone fireplace surrounded by famous busts, the Sculpture Hall is a fantastic little find and excellent value.
Perfect to indulge yourself if you are still watching the pennies; we are only just coming out of a recession after all.

Parched Tea Bar, 49 High St, Arndale Market Food Hall, Manchester, M4 3AH T:07878 122549
www.parchedteabar.co.uk

Teacup on Thomas Street, 53-55 Thomas Street, Northern Quarter, Manchester, M4 1NA
T: 0161 8342004

Red House Farm, Red House Lane, Dunham Massey, Altrincham, Cheshire, WA14 5RL
T: 0161 941 3480
www.redhousefarm.co.uk

Slattery’s Patissier and Chocolatier, 197 Bury New Road, Whitefield, Manchester, M45 6GE
T: 0161 767 9303
www.slattery.co.uk


The River Bar and Restaurant, The Lowry Hotel, 50 Dearmans Place, Chapel Wharf, Manchester, M3 5LH
T: 0161 827 4000
www.thelowryhotel.com

Opus One Bar and Restaurant, Radisson Edwardian Hotel Manchester, Peter Street, Manchester, M2 5GP
T: 0161 835 9929
www.radissonedwardian.com

Octagon Lounge, The Midland Hotel, Peter Street, Manchester, M60 2DS
T: 0161 236 3333
www.qhotels.co.uk/hotels/the-midland-manchester.aspx


Sculpture Hall, Manchester Town Hall, Town Hall, Albert Square, Manchester,M60 2LA
T: 0161 234 3243
www.manchester.gov.uk