PLATED up Sunday roasts and MediaCityUK neither high on my list of Sabbath must-dos. Yet here we are traversing the Beebs gusty village green (or Piazza) past assorted parents, grandparents, tee-shirted play assistants helping kids go sheep-hopping or mastering mini-lacrosse. Our destination: Damson for Sunday Lunch.
Ive long been an admirer of the a la carte at both Damson Heaton Moor and here, but I was keen to check out what appeared to be a bargain Sunday lunch two courses for £16.95, three for £19.95. As it turned out, three successive £3 supplements hiked my personal tally to £28.95. Just because I fancied the parfait of chicken liver and foie gras, 28-day aged roast Cheshire beef and a cheeseboard. Oh, and three different glasses of wine were involved along the way.
Against my instincts which veer towards South Indian dhosas or Sicilian ricotta stuffed courgette flowers for midday Sunday I ordered the beef, my wife the leg of lamb. Both were the right side of rare, but came disarmingly thinly sliced on a plate with a meagre smattering of jus/gravy, so the admittedly excellent, fluffy Yorkshire puds remained high and dry. My puds main role appeared to be as a receptacle for some duck-fat spuds and limp batons of parsnip.
The object of a roast is a communal serving. a rib of beef, a leg of lamb carved into rare chunks at table (the opposite of the loneliness of the long distance joint greying at an all-day pub carvery). Theres a food pub in Leeds where you can order a huge joint of meat for 8-16 people and it comes straight out of the oven to table. A hot oven, a sharing.
So Damson, adept in the subtle alchemy of fine dining, somehow fails a test passed by more casual eateries that have won acclaim for their roasts Parlour, Gorilla and (it has its champions) 3TwentyOne. Even the requested horseradish sauce lacked blast. DEspite the quality of the meat and vast array of al dente veg , the plate felt a duty rather than a joy on the kitchens part.
A shame really because starters of veloute of mushrooms, parmesan croutons, truffle cream and the parfait with red onion marmalade and toasted brioche were spot on. As youd expect, featuring regularly on the a la carte.
Despite an attractive, and familiar, dessert line-up we both felt like the Selection of Five Artisan Cheeses. The Brouilly Cru du Volcan Beaujolais by the glass went beautifully with them and their apricot chutney, but the cheeses Brie, Morbier, Wensleyale, Yarg and a blue were a slightly dull bunch, flattered by the over-used Artisan tag. We decided against sheep hopping or watching some spoof news channel on the Piazza's intrusive big screen and headed swiftly for the Metrolink.
Damson MediaCityUK, Orange Building, MediaCityUK Salford M50 2HF
Located above Prezzo at the Central Piazza. 0161 751 7020, http://mediacity.damsonrestaurant.co.uk.
