BYNG always meant for me the only Admiral ever executed by court martial (shot in 1757 for the geeks among you). Then I meet Tom of that surname. Not one to rock the boat, hes a proselytizer for the perfect pattie in a bun.
An engaging man, hes gladhanding his way round the latest branch of his Byron Burgers chain. This ones on Deansgate, a Liverpool incarnation is imminent, the empire is spreading out of London. BBs interior looks unfinished, but thats how its meant to look. Just as the craft beer list (Thornbridge, Kernel, Brewdog, US imports) sings cutting edge vibe. The sparkling young staff do their utmost to maintain that vibe. Yet on the evidence of our meal, its hardly rock and roll, or at least more Bryan Adams than incendiary indie.
Big Macs and Burger King may rule the cheap and cheerless downmarket, while indie upstarts like Manchesters own Almost Famous bring their own irreverent invention to the ground beef formula, but Toms happy to occupy the middle ground. Hes still one to worry about whether the obligatory pickle is sliced on the side or at the heart of the bunful, but he knows that if a lucrative niche-filler aint broke dont fix it.
Since 2007 when he opened his first diner in Kensington High Street he has attempted to recreate the simple classic hamburgers he used to OD on at the Silver Top in downtown Providence, Rhode Island during a spell Stateside. And he probably has. But surely £9.25 for the flagship Byron Burger with dry cure bacon, melted Cheddar, limp lettuce, tomato, red onion is pushing it? Especially when fries and onion rings come as side orders touching three quid (the courgette fries at £3.25 are the best bet, as it happens).
Just as the Scottish ground meat base is a secret mix of brisket and other cuts, the Byron sauce is a special blend, too. It was so subtle I didnt notice it. For £1.25 I ordered an extra topping of jalapenos to add Caramba! They didnt. (It's pictured below, with Tom).
Its a good site on the corner of John Dalton Street and it will do well while the hype lasts, but Id recommend so many other independent places where equally fine, if not better, burgers co-exist with a real commitment to local produce.
SUCH as Common terminus of the Manchester Veg People co-operative fund-raiser where veg was cycled from Glebelands City Growers via the John Rylands Library café to the Northern Quarter.
The produce was promptly cooked and served as the days specials at Common by head chef Anthony Munro. The dishes included cavolo nero tempura with kale from Brook House Farm and huevos rancheros with salad and rocket from Glebelands City Growers and eggs from Abbey Leys Farm.
Set up 18 months ago, Manchester Veg People aims to encourage sustainability and support local growers by providing them with a new and expanding market. Many of the citys best independent eateries uses them ncluding the Marble Arch, the Mark Addy, Chorlton Green Brasserie, Common and The Bay Horse.
Their campaign runs until July 20 and aims to raise £16,000 to buy much needed equipment for the co-op to expand, including a van and cold store.
PABLO Spaull is a name to conjure with and the hyperactive chief chocolatier from Forever Cacao lived up to its exotic allure when he gave an interactive Raw Chocolate Masterclass at Teacup in conjunction with his Northern Quarter outlet, Bonbon Chocolate Boutique.
Decadent indulgence was promised and duly delivered as he guided his audience through the raw chocolate process, health benefits and the challenges faced sourcing an ethical, sustainable cocoa supply from an indigenous tribe in Peru. Oh, and there was hands-on dessert making and chocaholic treats to taste and take home.
The processes are fascinating. Indigenous Criollo Cacao pods are organically grown by the Ashanika tribe in Peru. The pods are harvested by hand and split open to reveal the fresh cocoa beans inside. The beans are fermented to develop a rich flavour, then they are dried and bagged ready for their journey.
Once the beans arrive in the UK, the Forever Cacao team turn them into delicious raw bars. The best beans are hand winnowed and the nibs separated out. These are stone ground with cocoa butter and coconut sugar for several hours to create a smooth, pure taste.
After a good 20 hours of low temperature conching the chocolate is hand tempered, giving the bars their snap. The tempered chocolate is poured into moulds and set into bars. Finally the bars are hand-wrapped in homemade packaging, stamped and boxed up ready to be shipped.
A homespun hands-on foodie event with no bling, no Byng, no hype.
