Lisa Higginson
Back on a balmy night in August, I sat snugly in a stylish leather booth in the bowels of Princess Street and ate plates of wonderful food. I subsequently beamed about stumbling on one of Manchesterâs âhidden gemsâ and urged my fellow foodies to seek it out. Several months on and though the recollection of the aforementioned balmy night has faded into the ether of this eternal winter, the memory of my Obsidian dining experience has been brought back to life following a recent visit to try the new menu.
Last year saw Obsidian, which sits beneath the Arora Hotel, undergo a revamp that brought with it nuances of a New York cocktail bar/restaurant and a light dusting of glamour. But rest assured, they donât serve up pretension as a side dish here. In fact, for somewhere so aesthetically sleek, it almost comes as a shock â a good one â that the atmosphere is beautifully relaxed. The low lighting, cream leather seating and rich colours of the restaurant create an almost seductive space for which to indulge in a love affair with the menu.
Head chef Bryn Evansâ style is truly likeable; seasonal ingredients brought together in an uncomplicated manner, yet with just the right amount of performance on the plate to confirm his accomplished kitchen skill. Itâs clear that fine produce plays an important part in the inspiration of the daily changing menu, and that itâs given the respect it deserves.
We settled in with an exceptional bottle of Gavi (£24 mark). Smooth on the palate, with a delicate tone of lime and an almost almond like finish, this was one of the best examples of this Italian variety we had both had the pleasure of drinking. More so, it was the perfect accompaniment to my companionâs Brandade of wild sea bass with Dorset crab salad (£8) starter. This was a decadent plate of food; quenelles of creamy brandade surrounded a crown of fresh, sweet crabmeat topped with Sevruga. Neat flecks of apple and celery served well as a tool to cut through the richness of the brandade, but the dish would have benefited from more of it. The generous helping proved just a little too much in the end, and we were loathe to have to send back an unclean plate.
Meanwhile, I opted for Potted duck and foie gras press with beetroot salad and grain bread (£8) to begin. This was a shining example of how to balance flavours. The duck press was meaty and rich, yet sweet and subtly spiced, with a great âspreadingâ texture to boot. The velvety foie gras topping melted in the mouth and there was a welcome supply of zingy apple and beetroot to tackle its inescapable richness. Superb. The serving of excellent fresh bread was also enjoyed.
Onto the main event, and with a glass of exquisite Madfish Pinot Noir in hand, my companion indulged on the Fillet of Cheshire Beef, potato confit and pot roasted vegetables (£25). To say he enjoyed it would be an understatement. To say it was the best piece of beef I had tasted in a long, long time (note: butcherâs daughter here) also doesnât quite do it justice. Arriving in all its rosy-coloured glory, the sliced medium-rare fillet was sublimely tender and literally ebbed away on the tongue leaving only its meaty spirit behind. My guess was that this fine fillet had been given the pioneering sous vide treatment (water bath to pan), but either way it was cooked to absolute perfection. The roasted roots and heady jus also played a great supporting role.
Despite my companionâs declaration from across the table that, for the first time ever, he was glad heâd chosen his main instead of mine, I still delighted in my choice of Roast brill, pomme ecrasse, purple broccoli and roast garlic (£18). The hearty hunk of fished flaked handsomely off the fork and suited the earthy broccoli perfectly, while the potatoes packed a vibrant punch thanks to capers, sundried tomatoes and herbs. Although a simple dish, the ingredients were of such quality that they needed little fussing. And that, Iâm sure, Bryn knew.
It took all our strength to resist the array of cheeses that Obsidianâs menu offered, so we were somewhat weak when presented with the dessert options. It was All things Yorkshire rhubarb (£8) for me, and the medley of fragrant panna cotta, sorbet, ginger cream and poached rhubarb was a culinary celebration of one of my favourite British fruits. But while excellent flavour buzzed in most places on the plate, the panna cotta lacked any at all. Still basking in Cheshire beef euphoria, my companion ate the Cocoa Barry dark chocolate tart, with a Frangelico foam and cherry sorbet (£7). This was a king of puds. A charming short crust case beheld a heart-stopping dark chocolate filling, that had that perfect bitter-sweet bite. The foam was a little flavourless, but the cherry sorbet was a triumph that worked classically with the chocolate.
Service, I should mention, was flawless and keen, and this continued as we casually sloped into the bar next door to sample the newly launched cocktail menu. Head barman Tomâs passion for shaking and stirring was addictive and we were soon sipping on Grounds for Divorce (tribute to the great Elbow song) â Makerâs Mark bourbon infused with figs and stirred âold-fashionedâ? style â and a Ginger Tom - Barenjager honey soured with lemon, sweetened with sugar, and spiced with root ginger and finished off with Crème de Myrtille with a honeycomb garnish. Each was sublime in their own right, created with an evident understanding of complex flavours and of how to bring the palate to life.
While Obsidian is no stranger to Manchesterâs dining scene, it seems it has somehow merely been forgotten about amid the new wave of Abodes, Podiums and River Restaurants â but this is one strong swimmer and with food like that it shows no signs of sinking.
Obsidian, 24 Princess Street, Manchester, M1 4LY
T: 0161 238 4348
W: www.obsidianmanchester.co.uk