By Neil Sowerby
THE bells are ringing from St Oswalds sandstone tower as we arrive. Piercing the damp Cheshire air. The church dates back to 1269, while the pub called The Bells only arrived in Peover in the mid-19th century and was originally called the Warren de Tabley Arms. To enter through the porch you squeeze Hobbitlike under a vast gnarled vine. Inside all is dark and comfortable, yet at the same time quite country chic. We are there for lunch; I imagine after dark, in candle light, it is all quite magical.
Our lunch has a lot to live up to. Early in 1944, when American soldiers were stationed at Peover Hall, their commanders, General Eisenhower and General Patton, made plans for the D-Day invasion of Normandy over lunch here. This is the reason why the flag of the United States flies alongside the British at the pub.
I cant imagine a Thai prawn curry was on the agenda then. It features on a lunchtime menu that concentrates on delivering top-end pub food, not aspiring to destination restaurant. I assumed the evening a la carte would reflect more the track record of head chef Matt Smith (ex-Hibiscus and Andrew Fairlie Gleneagles) but no. It was much the same, a couple of quid dearer for the table dhote.
Terrific food
I dont really care. This is terrific food. The midday starters are much more interesting than the mains, the puddings a mite perfunctory, but as an all-round deal in idyllic surroundings it cant be beaten.
Downside the beer choice is Robinsons, who own the place. Old Tom (not one here is legendary) and the Iron Maiden brew Trooper is deservedly a big-seller, but generally its a dull range. The wine list is much better, cannily chosen by Noel Reid. We spent £26 on a white Italian, Veridicchio. Lemony with a slight bitter almond edge, it coped with my companions Thai curry and everything else. We took our time over it. We had to. Service was on the somnolent edge of leisurely.
My lightly cured salmon starter (£7.95) had an earthy, slightly peppery depth to it that was quite narcotic. There was a sensory joy matching it with its accompanying liquorice gel, fennel puree and lemon sorbet. A fragrant freshness, mirrored by the seared scallops (£10.95) across the table with their sharp beets and unusual hibiscus puree with its penetrating acidity.
The Thai prawn curry had a very Noughties pub staple feel. The substantial fresh prawns sat separate from sauce and rice, romansesco and spinach. All very delicate.
My sausages, in contrast, were firm devils, cinammon or cloves in the mix, the cabbage base very mustardy (which I liked}, the potato puree ethereally Robuchon. A world away from pub grub.
Ditto my apple tarte tatin with creme fraiche (£5.95). Unctuous, caramelised harvestfest. Lovely. Companion splashed out on the £8.95 selection of five cheeses (you can be less greedy). A French goat Valencay (probably the pick) aside, an English board with an astonishing array of home-made crisp breads, it was among my most spectacular dishes of the year.
Very English. Like The Bells of Peover. The interior is divine. The gardens are divine. The setting even more divine. Simple food done really well. Benchmark stuff. Go and taste.
Bells of Peover, The Cobbles, Lower Peover, Knutsford WA16 9PZ. 01565 722269. http://www.thebellsofpeover.com. Lunch two courses, £16.95, three courses £21.95 or a la carte.