YOUVE ruined it. It doesnt look the same. I dont like it and even the foods not as good. Disgruntled of Grindleton, shall we call him, was being ushered out by his equally ancient wife after he had given his verdict to all on the revamp we had come to check out, writes Neil Sowerby.
What a welcome to one of the North Wests best loved dining institutions. Nigel Haworths Ribble Valley Inns may now be four-strong, but its here at the flagship in the rolling country north of Whalley that it all began.
That was, amazingly, 10 years on, and where the Michelin-starred chef ventured into affordable gastropub territory, emphasising local sourcing many others have followed. Not just in the Ribble Valley, where most villages now boast a pub worth eating in, but all over the North.
I always had reservations. And it wasnt just a yearning for the fine dining ingenuity of Haworths multi-award-winning Northcote Manor. I found The Fishes an awkward, four-square space; I resented having to note the brass number plate on your table and trudge to the bar to log your order; I even thought the black and white shots of legendary local food producers (many of whom I know and respect) a bit theme parky. Welcome to Foodie Comfort Farm in the heart of cheese and potted shrimp country. A democratic food experience, supporting small scale suppliers, it felt churlish to carp.
So the invitation to inspect the new look Fishes left me vaguely uneasy. Would I like the look but find the food offering had faded? The mouthy malcontent at our arrival didnt dispel the unease.
Well, several shades of Farrow and Ball, some sturdy leather banquettes and better spot-lighting have softened the dining space immeasurably. Small ornamental details are fussy, but the artisan images are more discreetly displayed and I welcome the changes.
It will never have the cosy, many-roomed intimacy of the similarly Farrow and Balled Assheton Arms at Downham one of those young tyros on the Ribble dining scene but I cant see many feeling it has been spoiled.
The food and drink? Sticking to a tried and tested formula, big meaty or fishy sharing boards, potted Morecambe Bay shrimps, good things with beetroot and cauliflower, souffles and sausages, but perhaps more small dishes to share, following the mood du jour. Like the decor, its hard to put your finger on all the subtle changes.
I had a marvellously succulent rose veal chop and felt guilty Id not asked who the supplier was? It was followed by a decided newcomer, a playful Black Forest cherry cheesecake (main picture)melding fresh cherries, chocolate and a delicate mousse. A brilliantly executed conceit.
The Thwaites beers dominate the pumps and, alas, I am not a fan, but there was the solace of Bowland Brewerys excellent Hen Harrier and the Craig Bancroft-chosen wine list is a model of good value and taste.
Oh, and best of all, theyve abandoned the ordering routine. You now get proper table service. If the waiting on was a mite young and chaotic, well its early doors. The Three Fishes still rules the eating out territory it created.
Three Fishes Mitton Rd Mitton, Lancashire BB7 9PQ. 01254 826888, www.thethreefishes.com
