26 June 2009

Lisa Higginson

Housed in the sky-scraping reaches of Manchester’s Beetham Tower, The Hilton has undoubtedly made a name for itself as one of the city’s most iconic landmarks. The lavish hotel delivered Deansgate a dose of glamour when it arrived on the strip in spectacular style, bringing with it a whole new city sleek scene that has continued to flourish amid the concrete jungle.

Sipping a cocktail in the sky is certainly an experience to be had at the Hilton’s Cloud 23 bar, but back down on earth the Podium restaurant is also scaling great heights. Under the command of executive chef David Gale, the brigade at this contemporary haunt turns out modern British and European inspired dishes with a hint of Hilton class. But while it might have a big brand name above the door, Podium looks to smaller producers and local businesses - such as Glossop butcher J.W Mettrick and Son - when it comes to sourcing ingredients.

High ceilings and tall panelled walls give the restaurant a grand feel, but it is a comfortable space that beholds a relaxing atmosphere, although it felt a little empty on the Thursday evening we visited. From the notably balanced wine list, which offered around 12 varieties each of red and white wines, we opted for a bottle of the Corte Vigna Pinot Grigio, Italy 2007 (£18.00). For the price, this was a superb wine with delicate apple notes and a smooth finish.

As I perused the menu, it became evident that this was a kitchen that understood ingredients, seasons and flavours - obvious things, but still things that are all too often misunderstood. Intrigued by the starter of Warm Zampone with parsley dressed lima beans (£9.95), I asked our more than helpful waiter to explain the dish, which he did with great enthusiasm. On his word, I then found myself tucking into what was effectively a pig’s trotter patty - or Zampone if you live in Italy from where the dish derives.

The delicacy is created using trotter meat that is seasoned and rolled into thick sausages before being sliced and pan fried. Dishes like this make you realise how much forgotten flavour there is in off-cuts and Podium did a superb job of bringing them to the fore. Bound with tomato and herbs, the beans were an ideal accompaniment to the rich Zampone, which I actually thought wouldn’t be out of place on a breakfast menu.

Showcasing the season’s offerings was my companion’s starter of Grilled English asparagus and zucchini with soft goats cheese and mint (£7.95). The epitome of a summer dish, the plate was bursting with fresh flavours that were perfectly matched with the light, creamy cheese.

Being keen to ensure we had a thorough feel for Podium’s menu, the chef sent us a second starter of Cream of sweet corn soup with fresh langoustines and chilli (£7.50). Creatively peeled, but with its head in tact for full effect, the plump crustacean arrived ready to dip into the creamy veloute, which delivered amazing flavour. A third starter arrived in the form of Warm potted Morecambe Bay shrimps on toast with confit tomatoes (£9.95). Hailing from the fringes of Morecambe Bay myself, I have been lucky enough to grow up with this shellfish delicacy and Podium’s take on the classic dish was a good attempt, although a little more mace in the potting process would have put it up there with my grandma’s version.

From the extensive main menu, the Pan roasted cod fillet with white bean casserole and crispy squid (£15.95) was a faultless combination of expertly cooked components. The meaty hunk of fish fell away in moist flakes when tackled with my fork and the squid thankfully had no textural hint of rubber. The bean casserole appeared to be the same as was served alongside the Zampone, but it was tasty enough to eat twice and went well with a side of French beans with shallot confit (£3.60).

My companion tucked into a Grilled fillet of Cheshire beef with French fries, onion rings, roast tomatoes and watercress (£24.95). Although slightly on the more medium side of the medium-rare request, the steak had exceptional flavour and did justice to the region’s beef. The sweet, roasted tomatoes were hailed as the best my companion had tasted and despite the stack of onion rings being a little overwhelming after three starters, the chips went down well.

You’d be mistaken for thinking we wouldn’t have room for dessert after all we had consumed, but both being sweet-toothed (and greedy) we couldn’t resist. Dark chocolate delice with peanut ice cream and hazelnut brittle (£5.95) was one of the best desserts I have tasted for some time. Intensely rich, the delice was a velvet mouthful of chocolate pleasure, while the ice cream evoked fond memories of devouring peanut butter as a child - blissfully unaware and uncaring of the calories! Brimming with soft berries and balanced sweetness, my companion’s Summer fruit pudding (£5.95) was a further taste triumph.

Under the Hilton umbrella, it could be easy for Podium to assume automatic status as a top dining destination on the gastro map of Manchester. But instead, this restaurant works hard under its own merit to exemplify the talent of its team by executing menus that turn carefully selected quality produce into stunning dishes. Podium may not be 23 floors up in the clouds, but I was certainly in a little culinary heaven eating here.

Podium Bar and Restaurant, The Hilton, 303 Deansgate, Manchester, M3 4LQ
T: 0161 870 1670
W: www.hilton.co.uk/manchesterdeansgate