Simon Binns Small Plates, the brainchild of chef Phil Cook (how apt), has pitched up in the pub to offer a new range of modest meal options. The results are promising.
The emphasis is on paired-down versions of British favourites, each with their own twist, although thankfully, these are intelligent and appropriate rather than gimmicky.
Of the half dozen dishes we had, (there are eight in total), the Yorkshire Puddings with Blue Cheese & Chilli Jam stood out.
The cod cheeks in beer batter with mushy peas and the crispy pigs cheek, smoked bacon sauce, rekorderlig mayonaisse were worthy of podium positions too. In this case, plenty of cheek was a good thing.
Buttermilk fried chicken
The mini squid burgers were fiddly and hard to eat and might need a rethink, but the buttermilk fried chicken with roasted peanut sauce had depth and the cheddar cheese fondue that came with some asparagus spears in a small pan showed plenty of invention.
Thereâs a real star tucked away among the sides though. The triple-cooked chips are among the best in the city and worth every penny of the three quid. Light, golden and crunchy, they were as close to the perfect chip as the Northern Quarter has come.
More often than not, big doesnât equate to clever. Cook and his new venture is showing that small can indeed be beautiful. Especially if it comes with chips.
The Small Plates menu is priced at £5 each or three for £12.
The Bay Horse, 35-37 Thomas Street, Northern Quarter, M4 1NA. Tel: 0161 661 1041 www.smallplates.co.uk