By Neil Sowerby
SOME suburban stretches, West Didsbury and Chorlton spring to mind, seem to have offered enticing clusters of bars and eateries almost since time began – or at least since foodieness first burgeoned into a middle class obsession.
All of this passed Heaton Moor by somewhat despite its own well-heeled hinterland of young professionals – and despite the considerable presence of the original Damson restaurant. Now it is playing catch up.
Of course, this Stockport suburb already boasts two fine local delis, Back’s and Posusevski’s plus Thom’s and Kro bars, and a string of ethnic clustered together on Heaton Moor Road and Shaw Road, but the arrival of Brassica http://tasteofmanchester.com/search/?s=brassica under talented chef/proprietor Paul Faulkner has raised the game. Two new beer outlets are also in the pipeline, Corin Bland’s bottle shop in Shaw Road and just across the A6 in School Lane, Heaton Chapel, Heaton Hops.
The real catch may well be the transformation of the cafe at the Easy Fish Company into a seriously good fish restaurant. It sits unassumingly at the back of the fishmongers in a parade of shop on Heaton Moor Road – just along from Damson.
Damson owner Steve Pilling, a long time customer of the Leving family’s wholesale operation, first suggested they set up in retail in the dilapidated former Co-op. That was over four years ago. A cafe at followed, which last September became a proper fish restaurant with a sleek new look and a new kitchen team.
As a fishmonger’s Easy Fish may not boast quite the range of Out Of The Blue in Chorlton, but there is no doubting the quality of raw material it offers. Look no further than their £32.95 signature cold sharing platter or perhaps a whole grilled lobster at £34.25 after a trip of Atlantic oysters for just £4.95 with a choice of accompaniments – shallot and red wine vinegar and horseradish in creme fraiche.
There is a changing array of cooked fish dishes, too. From our first visit I recall a pan-seared scallops starter (£8.95, above) given an unusual meatiness by a ballotine of roast chicken confit flavoured with garlic and lemon thyme. A tomato relish added sharpness.
The wines are sourced from Gatley-based Boutinot. Their single vineyard Finca de Arantei Albariño 2013 (12.5 per cent alcohol and just £23 in the restaurant) is a perfect accompaniment with its peachy-with-a-hint-of-salt tang. You could buy the same bottle without the mark-up from the shop shelves, which also feature many other non-fishy North West products from the Cheshire Smokehouse to Great North Pies.
The Easy Fish Restaurant, 117 Heaton Moor Road, Heaton Moor, SK4 4HY. 0161 442 0823.
