Review: Lunch with an Italian twist at Liquorice Bar and Restaurant

22 December 2012

Tucked away down the side of King Street between Belstaff and Jamie’s Italian, this new bar and restaurant specialises in cocktails and meals to share all with an Italian bent. I checked it out at lunchtime with my friend Katie and the clientele was suit-oriented.

By night, though, expect a mixed crowd of after work types, well dressed couples and party people. Cushioned leather cladding lines the bar while the main colour scheme is a classic, almost oriental-influenced palette of gold and chocolate, like the sweet delicacy from which Liquorice takes its name.

The bar has that relaxed quality vibe that comes with an experienced crew. Run by Steve Pilling (formerly of the Chop House Group, now award-winning restaurants like Damson and the Red Lion gastro-pub in High Lane) and cocktail aficionado, Mark Whyte, you will probably see most of Mark if you drop in as he is the main man for day-to-day operations.

Cocktails are a draw. The presentation is solid with flashes of inspiration reserved for the palate. If you like tongue-twisting effects of liquorice allsorts, for example, you’ll love the house cocktail (£6.95) while The Last Samba is a unique take on caipirinha, infused fresh passionfruit and caramel syrup (£7.50).

Sour dough pizzas

We shared a Fiorentina pizza (£5) and a portion of meatballs and pasta (£8.50). The pizza base was light and crisp, freshly plucked topping just resting on the sour dough, an open book of flavour. The penne was al dente, meatballs rich and liverish (£9.95). All pizzas are made with twice fermented sour dough and I particularly like the sound of the Vesuvio (£8.95) which comes with meat balls with roasted peppers, tomato, mozzeralla and chilli flakes.

Like its former incarnation as Destinos Italian restaurant, Liquorice favours southern Med ingredients: mozzarella, pasta, fine, cured meats and olives. I was delighted that they have kept favourites from the Destinos menu (I was a big fan) with new additions like the Italian deli pizza (coppa and Milano salamis, prosciutto, tomato, mozzarella, and basil) and a salmon, spinach and walnut pasta (£5.95/£9.95).

There are more crowd pleasers too in the shape of hand cut chilli wedges (£3.50), tuna and cannellini bean salad (£8.95) and affogato, ice cream with espresso coffee and Amaretto (£4.95).

Liquorice Bar, 50 Pall Mall, M2 1AQ. Tel: 0161 8324600 www.liquoricebar.com

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