HOW time flies. It was 15 years ago I had last eaten brains. Pig brains on hominy grits in a Florida diner called Skyway Jack’s. It was an act of breakfast bravado after a heavy night on the bourbon (my journo colleagues were now on coffee and toast). My gung-ho alternative was Philadelphia scrapple, a heady mix of unmentionable pig parts, but even the younger-me balked at that. Jack had gone to the great Skyway in the sky. His widow Carole told me they’d had to rummage in the back of the fridge for my brains – there wasn’t much call (they’re still on the menu, though I checked).
Cut to 2016. Zouk Teabar and Grill off Oxford Road. The scrambled skull contents I was now gingerly rolling around my mouth are silkier than I recall, creamy with tomato and onion with well judged cumin and coriander in there and a modest chilli kick. Quite lovely. These came from a sheep and they’re on the menu as Magaz for £8.95 a moderate bowl; order Paya, the next one up, same price, and you’ll get sheep’s trotters seethed in a spicy broth.
A scrapple too far for me, desperate to get closer to Zouk’s Punjabi culinary origins than the generic curries that occupy most of the menu in this buzzing venue – all around fizzing candles were being presented to birthday girls enjoying the sprightly, relaunched cocktail list (you can also smoke shisha in the al fresco lounge).
Wines, reasonably price by glass and bottle, are from Boutinot and we sampled old reliables Moko Black Kiwi sauvignon and, with the Shawarma, a glass of Bierzo Spanish red.
The chefs in the open grill are part of the sizzling theatre of the place. You have to order big roasts in advance, but there’s lots of compensatory griddling going on. My £4.95 starter of chicken livers marinated i lemon and chilli, then flash seared was judged to pink perfection, slightly smoky; ditto a Chillo Kebab (£4.95), blackened on the outside but with a tender centre.
In contrast, the lamb in a house speciality Shawarma, grilled over an open flame with oregano and thyme, tasted a mite gnarled as it cooled in its wrap. It came with chips; perhaps it’s best eaten to order rather than being part of a mixed array? A side of Palak paneer (£4.95), densely spinachy with a whack of fenugreek, added some much-needed moistness.
Zouk prides itself on its seafood – my companion’s dining speciality; hence prawns in her starter and main, too. The first were simplicity itself, lightly spiced and shown the fire (£6.95). The Zouk Ocean Platter (£14.95) merely added scallop and salmon steak. Light and not overcooked but Anglo-Indian compromise again. Still Zouk always set out its stall, as a good time bar and all-day destination and it has never bandied about its street food credentials.
It has been joined, to form a lively Chester Street dining drag, by Lameizi and, more recently the lively Lebanese Bakchich and its canny formula will surely allow it to ride out competition from all the new wave Indians hitting the city centre.
During its seven years here its colourful founder Amjad (Peter) Bashir has switched political office across Respect, Ukip and the Conservative parties, while allowing sons Tayub and Mudassar to develop a Zouk style that rivals have copied. They are the brains of the operation (sic).
Zouk, Unit 5, Chester Street, Manchester M1 5QS.0161 233 1090. There’s also a branch in Bradford.
