31 March 2010

Ben Monk

What image does rhubarb conjure up for you? A common sight in your dad’s vegetable garden, flamboyant leaves hiding red and green stalks? An ingredient in many a poor school pudding, often tart and stringy? The word that actors used to say to each other to create background noise in a school play? For me, rhubarb has always made me think of childhood and not always favourably. However, from now on it needs a new entry in the lexicon of experience, because Rhubarb on Burton Road is a venue that is exciting, confident and definitely grown-up.

It’s exciting in the flair with which its menu has been created, with innovative taste combinations scrambling across the page. It is confident in the dexterity with which it handles such diversity – there is no fumbling for new ideas here, but rather surety and experience behind every mouthful. And it’s grown-up because throughout there is an evident maturity and understated elegance, whether that is in the décor or on the plates in front of you.

Walking in, you see plum velvet curtains, dark wood tables and low lighting, with a liberal scattering of tealights. Simple tulip settings reinforce the elegant-but-simple look. The tables are fairly close to each other but not uncomfortably so. Visit in a busy period and there is an energetic but unobtrusive buzz. There’s a good balance here, but for me, the best way to experience Rhubarb is to relax, take your time and cradle a rich red wine to match the décor.

So, with a name like Rhubarb, you might expect a nod to that particular foodstuff. Don’t worry, it’s not a question of rhubarb soup followed by duck a la rubarbe, but the addition of little quirky twists which is very welcome. So try one of the new excellent cocktails – Rosy Peach (£6.50) is a staff favourite apparently, and understandably so. A refreshing mix of flavours: mint, lemon and rhubarb. The more familiar Bellini (£6.50) was also excellent. There’s also a selection of Marble beers to choose from. It’s good to see a selection of European wines (French and Italian) as well as bottles from Australia, New Zealand and South America.

Our waiter really knew the menu – in fact he said he worked a day each week in the kitchen to keep his hand in. The starters are varied and it’s hard to choose between them, so I’ll do it for you – have the tapas (£8), it was probably the best dish we had during the evening. It’s made up of three separate portions – beautifully tender squid with chorizo, juicy prawns and a delicious frittata with Manchego cheese and red pepper – have a sherry with it for the full experience. Other options are also very appealing – a vegetarian option of goats cheese salad with walnuts and red wine poached pears (£6) was also a fantastic combination of flavours using top quality ingredients.

Kebabs often don’t work for me, taking me back to long nights at university, but my wife loved the lamb and pistachio kofta kebab (£6), enjoying something that is quite familiar done to a very high standard. The tempura chicken (£6) was in a refreshingly light batter and had a real kick to it, balanced by its accompanying Asian salad. You can see a trend here, with recognisable core ingredients cooked exceptionally well, but with a touch of innovation and creativity. Whatever you choose from the starters, you will be impressed.

Main courses were also artfully delivered. I had pan-fried fillets of sea bass, roast butternut squash and saffron risotto (£16) – the four pieces of fish were packed with flavour, with a slightly crispy skin and were well complemented by the creamy risotto. My wife’s chicken breast was perfectly cooked and clearly good quality, on a bed of bubble and squeak in a heavenly creamy sauce (£13). Flavour combinations worked very well. It is often harder to succeed with a main course than with a starter, perhaps because expectations sometimes demand a substantial central element (eg chicken breast, steak), but still need a variety of flavours to avoid boredom. These were handled well - ingredients combining fluently and effectively.

So impressed were we by the variety of dishes on offer, that we each tried three-part desserts. The three-tier chocolate plate (£7) offered a crumbly brownie, a delicate mousse and a great chocolate ice cream. With another nod to the restaurant’s title, the Rhubarb trio (£7) played with three different takes on this apparently under-rated vegetable (yes, it is a vegetable, Google says so). The rhubarb crumble was no school dinner effort, sweet with a hint of sharpness and a perfect contrast between soft fruity flavours and hard topping. I don’t normally like fruit in a crème brulee, but rhubarb worked very well in the second element, adding surreptitious flavour to each spoonful. Finally, it’s worth a visit just to try the rhubarb and custard ice cream, which balances two opposing flavours in a convincing and intriguing manner. This is imagination with purpose, effortless and artful.

Mark and Lisa Ramsden set up Rhubarb in 2002 and it soon won best newcomer at the Manchester Food and Drink Festival awards. Mark still spends a lot of time in the kitchen although chef Tony Slater maintains fabulously high standards when in command. It is clear that this restaurant has not only maintained early promise, but even built on it to create a formidable presence on Burton Road. If money’s an issue, their fixed menu (see our offers section) has been a huge success and gives anyone a chance to try their food. But I would urge you to take the time to enjoy the superb a la carte menu if you get the chance – you won’t be disappointed.

Rhubarb, 167 Burton Road, West Didsbury, Manchester, M20 2LN
T: 0161 448 8887
W: www.rhubarbrestaurant.co.uk