24 February 2012

In recent years, Manchesters King Street has emerged as a centre for fine dining. Amid monuments to the city’s Victorian prime (including the balcony of the old Reform Club, where Winston Churchill was a regular), you’ll find modern British, Room as well as Brown’s Brassiere and casual Italians like Jamie’s. None, however, have the pomp and circumstance of Rosso.

Co-owned by Manchester United footballer, Rio Ferdinand, this contemporary restaurant is Manc-chic to the core. Roman-style white pillars and elaborate coving typify the interior design and the bones of the place remind me of London’s Bush House. It’s like a big, white wedding cake inside with party people drinking prosecco and fine wine below. Chic and locally sourced, the menu classic Italian, but with hints of experiment; chillis are a recurring theme, for example, alongside flavours like mint, berries, cream and sage.

I was expecting the kind of cheffy flamboyance I’d encountered in 2009 when the restaurant first opened. However Rosso has matured. Simplicity has taken the place of culinary fireworks, and mains showcased the house style. At our waiters recommendation I went for the marinated rump of lamb with mint and chilli (Agnello Con Menta y Peperoncino, £19.95) while my friend had chicken escalope topped with sage and parma ham, on a bed of peas and pancetta (Saltimbocca di Pollo, £16.95). Sides included oozy, delicious, lightly battered fennel (£3.95) and a portion of inspired ‘chilli broccoli’ (£3.50) – a way to jazz up everyday veg that I’ll be employing at home.

It was early evening when we dropped in and the room was vibing. Smart cats in suits, ladies with heels and handbags surrounded tables. To one side there was some kind of engagement party, while on the other, a stylish older couple enjoyed a volley of wines. Given the simple allure of the food, I settled on the Dolcetto D’Alba (2010, Cordero Di Montezemollo, £39.95) from the mostly Italian wine list. My friend liked it: it’s more savoury than Valpolicella, less intense than Barolo. The jaunty, floral character is perfect with food, and, like Burgundy, it’s the kind of wine that develops over the course of a meal, giving up a little more of itself to each course.

To start we had pan-seared scallops with chilli and lime, set over ginger-scented spinach (Capesante, £12.95) while my friend went for the baked field mushrooms with goats cheese and rocket mousse, lifted by a spiced onion jam (£7.95). The wine took these flavours in its step, even complementing the dessert course. Laura wanted something light, so had the sorbet, while I deconstructed a pink creation, the berry-infused Tiramisu. Both were sweet: desserts to round off an occasion. Laura’s platter included mango, passion fruit as well as your typical lemon, orange and strawberry, while the texture of my tiramisu (the soft, light sweet, moist and creamy fusion that makes this dish so great) was present and correct (both £6.95).

I liked Rosso. I had thought that the footballer-affiliation might translate into over-ambition in the kitchen. But instead I found confident restraint. Serving simple, fine dining, inspired by quality ingredients, its one for that special occasion.

43 Spring Gardens, Manchester, M2 2BG
Tel: 0843 290 9100
http://www.rossorestaurants.com/