15 June 2009

Lisa Higginson

It has been just four months since Zouk Tea Bar & Grill blasted onto Manchester’s dining scene and already it is seriously spicing things up. Rave reviews followed the restaurant’s opening, awards could be hovering on the horizon and word-of-mouth whispers of its exceptional cuisine are sure to be sending a nervous shiver up the spine of the Curry Mile.

Entering the Chester Street eatery, it is immediately evident that this is no ordinary ‘curry house’. The 200-seat contemporary restaurant sits underneath high ceilings and is surrounded by floor-to-roof windows. It is brought to life by an open kitchen that sprawls the length of the room, allowing punters to peruse the culinary theatre of the talented chefs.

Zouk is the brainchild of Amjad Bashir, who opened the flagship restaurant in Bradford with his sons Tayub and Moudissar around two years ago. Across the Pennines, the family’s eatery has scooped a string of awards and has a hearty following. It is easy to see why. Amjad, who opened his first restaurant in 1979, is infectiously passionate about what he does and his enthusiasm shines through in Zouk. Its ethos, he says, is to offer an innovative menu that captures the essence of Lahore cuisine, uses the freshest ingredients possible and showcases flavours of North Africa, Arabia as well as Asia.

After walking through the doors on a wet Wednesday night, we were greeted by smiling staff and consumed by a buzzing atmosphere. Showed to the bar, we ordered a bottle of New Zealand Cape Camble Sauvignon Blanc (£17.95) from the modest wine list and enjoyed a glass before being led into the ground-floor dining area (there is also a mezzanine upstairs). A good turn-out of mid-week diners occupied the cream leather booths and dark wooden tables, which spoke volumes about this restaurant’s growing reputation.

From the eclectic menu, I started with Gola kebabs (minced lamb with paneer cheese, herbs and spices cooked over charcoal) (£3.50). Arriving with a cooling pot of raitha, the lamb packed a perfect punch and was well-suited to the mild cow’s milk cheese. Across the table, a plateful of Chicken livers marinated with crushed chillis, cumin and lemon juice (£3.50) impressed my companion’s palate. Subtly spiced, the soft liver dissolved delicately on the tongue and beheld a stunning flavour. A tasty dish of Palek paneer (spinach and fenugreek with paneer cheese) (£3.95) was also ordered on Amjad’s recommendation.

Having found it difficult to decide what to pluck from the extensive selection of main courses, I was glad that Zouk’s attentive staff were there to point me in the direction of the Lahore speciality Nahari Lamb (£8.95). Cooked slowly with a careful selection of herbs and spices, the lamb arrived in a tender and succulent state amid a robust sauce that had captured every ounce of flavour released from the meat. As instructed by the waiter, I scattered the lamb with a pinch of the accompanying coriander, Garam masala, root ginger and green chilli along with a squeeze of lemon juice before eating. The intricately selected ingredients of this dish made it both an education and a triumph.

From the speciality seafood dishes, we ordered Monk fish (£14.50), which was marinated with lemon juice, ajwain and cumin seeds before being grilled. The meaty fish was delicately flavoured and served alongside a smoky sauce. A bowl of fluffy Boiled rice (£1.70) and a freshly made Garlic naan (£2.45) brought the meal together perfectly and a side dish of the daily changing Dall (£3.50) was a delight of subtly-spiced lentils.

Had it not been for Zouk’s French pastry chef and his display of homemade fruit tarts, cheesecakes and chocolate cakes, I would have left the restaurant feeling comfortably full. But unable to resist, I greedily opted for a fresh Mango tart (£3.95) and subsequently had to waddle home in a precarious manner. It was worth it though; the sweet pastry melted in the mouth alongside the tangy mango sauce and rich crème patisserie.

With a sleek interior, a menu that boasts a fusion of flavours and a calendar of live music events, Zouk is single-handedly sexing-up Manchester’s dining scene. Thank you Zouk.

Zouk Tea Bar & Grill, Unit 5 Quadrangle, Chester Street (just off Oxford Road), Manchester, M1 5QS.
T: 0161 2331 090
W: www.zoukteabar.co.uk