Benedict Brader
The Market Restaurant is 30 years old this year â a venerable institution in the constantly fluctuating history of the Northern Quarter. Step through the door and you are met by reminders of the past, with photos on the wall from a hundred years ago. At that time, the walled area opposite the building contained a busy market in what was the commercial centre of the city. The Northern Quarter is a different place these days, to say the least, now packed with ultra-modern bars and populated by the young and the trendy (do I sound old?).
There is a noticeable trend towards eclecticism in many of these venues, and itâs easy to wander into bars where mismatched old furniture and dark wood décor attempt to evoke memories of traditional establishments, with scattered elements of kitsch thrown in as well to show that they are properly post-modern. The Market Restaurant is not modern, nor is it post-modern, and at times it is not slick, so itâs strange that these qualities can make it refreshing in an environment like the Northern Quarter. Gary, the owner, described it as a venue for those âwho are not comfortable with pretentionâ?, and that seems very apt. It has an authenticity which many of the neighbouring bars crave.
The quality of the ingredients on offer is exceptional, as you might expect from a venue that justifiably prides itself on its supply chain. I had steak for my main course, which was as good a piece of meat as I have ever eaten, and before weâd even begun, a varied basket of exceptional bread pieces was put in front of us â a minor element perhaps, but the sort of thing that makes all the difference.
The focus on quality produce flows into the drinks menu. I would recommend trying a beer while youâre there, if only to start the meal â it would be a shame to ignore such an amazing selection. The variety is impressive, with intriguing possibilities including a champagne beer â Oude Geuze Boon a lâancienne â served in a champagne flute, fizzing and yeasty. There is obviously a relationship in place with various breweries that has brought in some unusual and enjoyable options. It was also great to see a long list of Kirs available. I havenât been to many places in the UK that will offer you a choice between cassis and mure, let alone the option of having a Kir Normand (£4.50). Somebody knows their stuff!
The starters were all cold dishes apart from the soup, which I sometimes think is a shame, but ours were artfully presented and very pleasant. Smoked Trout with Blue Moon reduction (£6.95) maybe lacked a punch but was well executed - the reduction coming from a lager of the same name. I had Smoked Breast of Duck, with orange and walnut salad and a mixed berry dressing (£6.95). Iâve never had smoked duck before but it looked great and had a subtle flavour which worked well, although the sauce overpowered it slightly.
The Fillet of Beef (£23.95) was an exceptional piece of meat, with a tower of chips and a red wine gravy that complimented it well. My wifeâs lamb was tender and nicely cooked and also clearly very good quality.
Gary, the owner, having been a regular customer for years, bought the restaurant two years ago. One of his aims has been to nurture new talent and develop younger staff, who can often struggle to get a foothold in a competitive industry, which is a huge credit to him. Dan, his restaurant supervisor, is 18 and has an exhaustive knowledge of every item on the menu, both food and drink. The other two waitresses are a similar age, prompting my only concern of the night, which was whether I could ask for a beer recommendation from someone who might not be of drinking age! No problem though, Dan has it covered.
The chef, Ashlee Curtis, is also 18 - a brave choice in a role that would normally be filled by someone with a good decade of experience in a number of different environments. However, he clearly has a bright future in the industry, and it will be interesting to see how he develops in his career. It is great to see an owner giving new, young talent a chance and I can certainly respect that.
Looking to the internet, itâs not hard to find comment to the effect that the Market Restaurant is not what it used to be. It certainly had a reputation as one of the best restaurants in Manchester and this crown seems to have slipped somewhat over the last couple of years. I never visited the restaurant under its previous owners and Iâm not convinced that comparisons are helpful to anyone, so I will stick with the current establishment. It is always challenging to take on a successful venue with an established clientele and continue to make it work.
You need to be very careful not to knock the Market Restaurant for any superficial flaws. In a competitive industry, we get very used to constantly moving fashions in style of delivery, whether in the menu printing or the décor, increasingly unusual taste combinations or surprising visual presentation. It seems that every new restaurant is trying to carve its own niche in the market, aiming to be bold and different. The Market Restaurant does not try to do this, and if this flummoxes you, and you wonder why it is not fighting to be brash and post-modern, then go somewhere else. If however, you can appreciate the charm in a restaurant that has not had to try to be something, but merely is, then you could certainly do worse than give this a go.
The Market Restaurant is the real deal, in terms of being itself, not pandering to the latest styles and refusing to compromise its charm by reinventing itself to fit into the Northern Quarter vibe. Whether this is sustainable remains to be seen â diners are increasingly looking for a slick and stylish experience, with food and design that is both innovative and âcleverâ. However, it will remain one of the pillars of the Manchester food scene, and an anchor to the ever-shifting styles of the Northern Quarter.
The Market Restaurant
104 High Street Manchester M4 1HQ
T: 0161 834 3743
W: www.market-restaurant.com