Neil Sowerby Tim Baconâs empire seems to be the only show in town these days. The Alchemist, his quest for bar gold in Spinningfields, will shortly be joined by fusion venture, Australasia. And Grill on The Alley in Ridgefield now has a clone off Piccadilly called Grill On New York Street. Should we celebrate Lord Timâs entrepreneurial nous or shed a quiet tear that Manchester city centre drinking and dining is just a bit samey?
Bringing home the Bacon. I love that phrase. The sizzling sound of success. Just as I love jamon iberico, the thinly-sliced Spanish ham I used to nibble alongside a stunning sherry or two at Grado while chewing the fat with manager Marco Ficino, currently masterminding Brownâs in town. Now Grado is no more. The aptly named Tim Bacon has transformed this stylish dining space into another of his Grills, keeping the open plan kitchen and decor intact, while eradicating every vestige of Paul Heathcoteâs hit and miss celebration of all things Spanish (though I am told the remnants of the Iberian wine list are available while stocks last; we were to drink an obscure red Mencia from the even obscurer Bierzo region).
What it does share with its previous identity is a tendency to slightly overcharge for not overly complicated dishes and now, a merely solid wine selection. Still you canât afford to get sentimental about eating-out spots these days. Heathcote had business reasons for selling off a large chunk of his empire. And Iâm quite ready to credit the story that shrewd Aussie Bacon would have liked to continue it as a living Spanish venture (sic) but it just wasnât raking in the dosh.
It is an odd situation, though, playing copycat only a quarter of a mile away from your own successful operation. Grill On The Alley is a hard act to follow. Like San Carlo or Piccolino, it has cornered the market in feelgood buzz for suits. The food at Browns has to go up a couple of notches before it can really compete with this trio. The only immediate difference I noticed inside Grill on New York Street was the far wall photographic montage of the Big Apple. At least it wasnât portraits of the Rat Pack, like those stuck up in Rosso to âadd classâ?. Call me a small apple, but the thoroughfare will always remain plain (very plain) York Street to me before the strange appearance of the âNewâ? appendage a few years ago.
The new Grillâs menu is as recognisable as the New York skyline, if not as thrilling. Unless you want your wallet to be thrilled by a splash-out on Wagyu Kobe fillet from those cows fed on beer and massaged from birth. £55 a shot to you, guv, though the 100 per cent Kobe burgers will only hit you for £18.25. I went for the more manageable fillet of Limousin beef, the monthâs featured steak, from, Iâm told, golden-red cattle free to roam in Cumbriaâs Eden Valley while troughing on the plushest grasses known to man. The caring farmer is Mark Bowman of Crindledyke Farm and if he isnât a ruddy heifer of a countryman, Iâll order Kobes all round.
Whatever, itâs a premium cut at £35 for 8oz. Served rare inside a seared crust, it was quite exquisite in texture and taste. Buttered savoy cabbage and hand-cut chip sides were as lovely as the accompanying bearnaise was muddy.
There was little on the menu that cried innovation, molecular gastronomy or taking you beyond your comfort zone and I had surely eaten the prototype of every dish at Grill On The Alley over the years, so I played safe with six oysters â from the Sound of Cumbrae if you must know â for a starter (£9.75). Safe apart from overdosing on tabasco but that was my decision. Nice freshness about them, like the mussels I had on the Grillâs opening night soft launch. Service at the launch had been chaotic, such is the nature of these events. On a more relaxed Thursday mid-afternoon it was kindly, while, lacking the sharpness of Alley and, it goes without saying, the other New York across the water.
My lunch partnerâs saddle of venison with colcannon mash and juniper jus (£18.50) is the classiest alternative to the myriad beefs and lobster. Perfectly executed. Asked for pink, got pink. No surprises. Similarly the excellent looking cheese offering. The presence of the stinky epoisses cheese is one bold step. I was tempted, but chocolate fondant with vanilla foam and morello cherries and bread and bitter pudding with ginger ice cream at £5.50 apiece tempted more. And delivered. And Grill on New York Street definitely delivers. Even if it is the usual delivery.
New York Street, Piccadilly, Manchester M1 4BD. Tel: 0161 238 9790, www.blackhouse.uk.com
