Having never been to Linen before, or indeed a casino, I really didnât know what to expect. Having no expectations of a restaurant before you go is better because then everything is fresh and a surprise.
Manchester 235 is a casino at the back of the Great Northern Warehouse, and despite me having walked past it a million times before when I worked in that area, I managed to get us completely lost. The manager was very gracious of our breathless apologies as we arrived dishevelled and hungry and almost half an hour late for our booking. With its high ceilings, original beams and smart booths, Linen was a really impressive place.
Restaurant manager Ben Robertson has just re-launched the menu and created a simple but downright tasty menu. Choosing from the concise starter menu, I went for the light smoked salmon (£5.50), which was delicious but quite a small portion which Iâd eaten in about 30 seconds flat. Some brown bread would have bulked this out at hardly any extra cost. The Tomato and basil risotto of the day (£4.50) was a fantastic example of how a risotto should be creamy, while still retaining a bite. It was served in a small deep bowl with oven-roasted cherry tomatoes on the vine as a garnish and looked as good as it tasted.
The main courses were also fairly light, but definitely large enough to fill us up after a long day at work and an evening event. My Broccoli, stilton and cauliflower tart (£9.95) came with a side of sweet rhubarb chutney for a nice sour bite against the creaminess of the tart, while the chunky chips were some of the best Iâve encountered for a long time. The honey glazed chilli chicken (£12.50) was a nice plump breast on the bone, and I was pleased to see the glaze wasnât overpowering as I thought it might be. This was served with a mango and papaya dressing and a chilli and coriander dressing, which kept the whole dish light and refreshing.
Keeping it light, we both went for a glass of white: the French La Croix Blanc Coteaux dâEnserune, 2007 for my friend (£5.75), and a glass of Italian Riff Pinot Grigio delle Venezie Terra Alpina, 2007 (£6) for me.
The assiette of desserts (£7.95) is always a winner, especially where girls are concerned because it makes you think youâve not scoffed a whole dessert. The combination of shortbread with strawberries and cream, chocolate pudding and mini-cheesecake went down a treat.
There was a lovely peaceful atmosphere that felt really removed from the busy city, and the new menu was an elegant mix of British dishes. Linen has some really good offers on a the moment to liven the place up, which will certainly tempt me through the doors.
On Tuesdays and Wednesdays, eat from the three course menu for £20 and get unlimited wine. You can also enjoy two courses for £10 and three for £15 from Tuesday to Friday. Additionally, if you dine in Linen on a Saturday evening, you get a 20% discount to use Tuesday to Thursday in the week.
Linen, Manchester 235, The Great Northern, Watson Street, Manchester, M3 4LP.
T: 0161 828 0300
W: www.manchester235.com