Tampopo

4 September 2008

Busy, busy, busy. Always flamin busy. Hectic city lives are always getting in the way of those things that matter most and, all too often, the first thing to be sacrificed from our manic schedules is sensible eating. We seem to opt for the quick and easy (usually unhealthy) snack, rather than the healthy wholesome option. If only we could have both?
The words fast-food, however, tend to carry negative connotations: Greasy burgers, obesity, greedy global corporations and aggressive marketing, all spring to mind at the thought. We seem to be being told that the only way food can be quick is by filling it full of rubbish and giving it a generic cardboard flavour. Luckily, this falsehood is increasingly being challenged, not least, by Tampopo and its menu of quick and simple, healthy pan-Asian food.

Its noodle bar design, of long communal benches, makes for a relaxed and informal setting, easy to enjoy as part of a group or even on your own. This creates the perfect environment for lunchtime breaks, giving you a moment to sit down and eat a guilt free meal that won’t harm your heart, have the boss on your back or break the bank. The menu is a carefully compiled selection of cuisine from around Asia’s pacific rim, with flavour packed dishes from Japan, Vietnam, Malaysia and beyond. Each national selection brings something special and unique to the table, with flavour combinations inspired by the street vendors of the region.

Dining late afternoon at Tampopo’s Albert Square restaurant, my dining companion and I opened our early dinner with Goi Cuon (£3.50) which are like vegetable rice pancake rolls, served cold, and Tempura Vegetables (£3.95). The Goi Cuon had a very clean and herby flavour, very soft and delicate. I always love anything served in the light, crisp tempura coating, but the variety of vegetables on this plate would take some beating. Pieces of broccoli, pak choi, sweet potato, peppers were perfectly cooked, and the chucky cut gave them real substance.

Main courses are divided into various sections, with offerings of salads, wok-fried rice and noodles dishes, stir-fries and saucy specials (don’t be expecting a geisha on your plate). I found the wide selection difficult to chose from, so attempted the cunning tactic of spying out the most delectable looking dish being devoured in the restaurant, then ordered that. This turned out to be Seafood Yaki Udon (£7.95). My companion, who also pondered greatly over the menu, ended up ordering Beef Panang Curry (£8.50). The udon noodles are big thick Japanese noodles (which I find preferable to those tiny fiddly ones) and these had been fried in soy sauce with peppers and leek. They were served with huge green-lip mussels, squid and king prawns in an abundance. The panang was quite hot, with a rich and nutty flavour, again there was plenty of meat.

We washed all of this down with several different bottles of Asian beer, my favourite being Beer Lao (£3.10) from errrr, Laos. The Japanese lager Asahi (£3.30) was very good too, very crisp and clean tasting.

Tampopo is what fast-food should be, tasty, cheap and nourishing. This may not be the quietist of restaurants (sometimes having to raise your voice to be heard across the table) but this is what gives it its vibrant atmosphere. The best thing about this eatery is the breadth of the selection. So often Cantonese restaurants serve the same tried and tested dishes again and again; to the point of overkill. There’s none of that here, everything is fresh and authentic, with flavours that you will find in few other Manchester restaurants.

Tampopo
16 Albert Square,
Manchester.
M2 5PF

Phone: 0161 819 1966

www.tampopo.co.uk

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