Taste loves the all new Bluu

3 August 2011

Jamie Faulkner Bluu Bar in the Northern Quarter has undergone a bit of transformation. Out went the restaurant and in came more seating and an extended bar. The new space has been utilised to good effect with the creation of three booths, each with its own theme, and the whole bar feels even more spacious than it did before.

New management has seen an extended wine list and a new direction for the food. Bluu has been much maligned among reviewers and NQ residents for attracting the run-off from the Printworks, especially at the weekend, so we popped in on a Friday night to see whether the refurb and style shift has made a difference to the vibe.

From the outside nothing much appears to have changed - the main bar is almost identical. However, walking past the side bar, you are greeted by a much more opulent and colourful backdrop.

Decorative, brightly-painted wardrobes block off the previously exposed kitchen area; teardrop chandeliers hang from the ceiling; carved wood shelving showcases the premium spirits; and reclaimed, vintage furniture is still de rigeur. Add to this the booths, and it feels like you’ve walked into a completely different bar. There are three distinctly different booths, each available to hire free of charge, although there is up to a two-month waiting list for the most popular ones.

Popular booths

The first has a woodland theme with olive trees wrapped in fairly lights; the second has a pop-art theme with a Lichtenstein print forming the centrepiece; the last has what appears to have a pin-up/Hollywood style topped off with a huge metal star the likes of which you’d find at a circus or funfair.

The drinks menu has been overhauled too. Bluu made its reputation on cocktails and it has decided to strip back its cocktail list to concentrate on the classics, while still providing eight of their own invention. Champagne cocktails are proving quite a hit, the Hollywood Martini in particular, which contains vanilla vodka and passion fruit liqueur accompanied by a shot of champagne.

Decent cask ale being all the rage nowadays, Bluu have permanently installed an English Pale Ale on draught (a mild session ale at 3.6% abv) and have two additional handpulls which will feature different ales sourced from five regional breweries around the UK, all of which are owned by Marstons. The wine list now features an impressive thirteen red, twelve white, and five rosé wines, the majority of which can be had for under £20.

Food could’ve become a bit of an afterthought in a bar focused on exceptional drinks but according to assistant manager Eilidh Struthers, customers who previously came in with only the intention of drinking are increasingly ordering food; and by serving food throughout the bar, Bluu has increased their number of potential diners. Business is better than ever apparently.

We decided to opt for the grazing menu, given that the management seemed keen to promote it and the rest of the menu is fairly similar to what it had been previously. The ethos is still homemade, locally sourced British food but there are inflections from other cuisines, such as Greece and the Middle East in dishes like cherry tomato and halloumi skewers and falafel.

We picked the scotch egg, tempura prawns, fishcakes, potato skins, and the aforementioned skewers. We washed this down with a light, summery Italian white (Gavi Di Gavi) and a palatable Trivento Malbec. The portions are generous, five items between two leaving us fairly sated. The only complaints were the consistency of the tempura batter which was far too dense and the scotch egg’s meat coating which was overpowered by an excess of sage and rosemary. To finish, we shared a deliciously rich slice of chocolate jaffa cheesecake, complimented nicely by a well-made if slightly sweet tequila Espresso Martini.

Bluu is particularly good for a quick after-work bite, especially if you can take advantage of the outdoor seating area on the corner of High Street and Thomas Street - arguably the biggest in the Northern Quarter.

Food is served until 10pm daily, inside and out and the bar now offers Wifi access. From 5 to 8pm, you can order three items from the grazing menu and a bottle of wine or two pints of San Miguel for £15. That’s a good deal in our book.

Smithfield Market Buildings, Thomas Street, Northern Quarter, M4 1BD. Tel: 0161 839 7195 www.bluu.co.uk

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